Daniel-san.....wax on.....wax off

Sometimes it is amazing some of the myths and legends that arise in the automobile world, but some of the fun ones always have to do with wax. The main reason is that people don't appreciate what wax really does, which is provide additional protection to your paint by not allowing substances to bond or react with the paint.

Myth: A finish that looks glossy is in good condition.

Fact: Just because it looks glossy doesn't mean that it is. The best way to check this is to use your hand, just run your hand over the car, if it feels as smooth as glass, then the finish is in good condition, if you can feel bumps that could mean general decay, maybe dirt or droppings or sap mist has come in contact with your vehicle.

Myth: Oxidation is a major problem for factory paint.

Fact: Up to 5 to 10 years ago, this was a fact. But now with new paint formulations that are being used, the old standby of factory paint not being as good as a third party paint just doesn't hold water.

Myth: Clear-coat finishes don't require waxing.

Fact: Clear-coat is another layer of paint so it is subject to the same forces of oxidation as pigmented paint is. So you will still want to wax your vehicle periodically using wax that is labeled as being safe for clear-coats.

Myth: A wax made of 100-percent carnauba is superior to those using lesser amounts.

Fact: Carnauba has been a favorite for years, but there isn't any 100 percent formulation of carnauba wax. Carnauba is the hardest natural wax known, and it is way too hard to apply directly to your automotbile's paint. What happens is that the carnauba is shipped in bricks to the company that makes your wax and it is added to the formulation. When a wax is advertised as "pure carnauba" its refering to the fact the carnauba isn't mixed with a lesser natural wax, not that the only ingredient is carnauba wax.

Myth: Avoid a silicone-based wax, unless you never want to be able to repaint your vehicle.

Fact: Its true that if there is silicone on the sheetmetal when its painted the paint will not be able to adhere to the metal properly. However, once the paint has adhered to the metal, then silicone isn't an issue. In fact, most waxes use silicone because it helps with the ease of application, improves the look of gloss and helps make it more durable. Also if repainting is necessary, a body shop can take the wax off as part of the prep process.

Myth: With easy-care formulas, paint scratches can be easily reomved by hand.

Fact: Scratches can be temorarily filled with some products, but will reappear with your first wash. The only way to remove scratches is to use a wax with an abbrasive that will remove some of the surrounding paint making the scratch seem less deep. For more advanced deeper scratches the solutions may range from an orbital bufffer to wet sanding the affected area.

Myth: Machine buffins is dangerous for paint.

Fact: There are different types of machines designed for buffing and polishing, and all are safe when matched with the right skill level. An orbital buffer, is the least aggressive type and can be easily used by the average do-it-yourselfer. A dual-action polisher is slightly more aggressive and therefore requires more care and skill to use safely. Finally, a professional-type rotary polisher can remove paint relatively quickly, making it a good choice for fixing damaged paint. This same trait, however, also makes it easier to burn through a paint layer unless used by an experienced person.

Myth: Swirl marks or spider-webbing are found mostly in old or abused paint.

Fact: Even brand-new paint can show spider-webbing (very light scratches, normally in a circular pattern that are most easly seen in a reflection off the surface). There are a number of products on the market that will remove this. However, your best way to take care of it is to find out what is causing it and eliminate the cause if at all possible.

Myth: A good paint protectant can protect against fire.

Fact: This is like going to a magic show. Its all sleight of hand, because if you've ever played around with lighter fluid or rubbing alcohol you understand it is the fumes that feed the fire, not the liquid. So you should be able to place your hand where the flame was and feel very little excess heat coming off the metal where the flame was. Now if the guy is hitting with a flame thrower, then I'm going to be inclined to listen to that claim.