Billion Parts and Thoughts

Cheaper to drive on Memorial Day???

2010-05-20T10:53:00.000-07:00

Oil Prices Drop as Memorial Day Approaches

AP- Associated Press
05/20/2010
By CHRIS KAHN, AP Energy Writer

NEW YORK – Memorial Day travelers should get a gift at the gas pump as they head out for the holiday weekend.

Gasoline prices dropped Thursday for the second week in a row, and they'll be pushed even lower as oil prices continue to tumble.

Futures contracts for oil and other energy commodities slumped as financial troubles in Europe and weak jobs numbers in the U.S. forced a sell-off on Wall Street. Benchmark oil, gasoline, heating oil and Brent crude all plunged more than 3 percent by midday.

Crude for June delivery dropped $1.87 to $68.00 a barrel on the contract's final trading day on the New York Mercantile Exchange. Most of the trading has moved to the July contract, which lost $1.86 at $70.62 a barrel.

Prices fell even after Platts, the energy information arm of McGraw-Hill Cos., reported that Chinese oil demand grew in April by nearly 13 percent.

"People are saying it's time to get out," said Michael Lynch, president of Strategic Energy & Economic Research. Earlier this year, Lynch stood out from many of his peers by predicting that oil prices would fall.

"The market has gotten way ahead of itself," Lynch said. "People kept saying that soon demand will go up and inventories will go down. But that's not happening."

Traders started getting nervous as the debt crisis unfolded in Europe. U.S. government data showing that Americans continue to have a relatively weak appetite for fuel have sunk energy prices even further.

An EIA report on Thursday added to those concerns, showing that the country's stockpile of natural gas has ballooned to nearly 17 percent more than the five-year average.

If the world doesn't start sopping up excess supplies, oil prices may fall into the $40-per-barrel range this year, Lynch said.

At the pump, retail gasoline prices dropped 1.2 cents overnight to a new national average of $2.84 a gallon, according to AAA, Wright Express and Oil Price Information Service. A gallon of regular unleaded is 1.9 cents cheaper than it was a month ago, but it's 50.6 cents more expensive than a year ago.

Experts say gas prices have likely peaked already this year, and it should cost less to fill up this summer than in the summer of 2009. That's good news for the travel industry as Americans get ready to hit the highways over the Memorial Day weekend, the unofficial start of the summer driving season.

On Thursday AAA estimated that more people will take leisure trips during the holiday weekend than last year. About 32.1 million people are expected to head for the highway or the airport. The travel club's report said most people probably will watch their wallets more closely, however, spending about $809 during the weekend this year compared with over $1,000 last year.

In other Nymex trading in June contracts, heating oil fell 5.08 cents to $1.8944 a gallon, and gasoline was down 5.42 cents to $1.961 a gallon. Natural gas rose 2 cents to $4.178 per 1,000 cubic feet.

In London, Brent crude July contact gave up $2.52 to $71.17 a barrel on the ICE futures exchange

Top 10 Legal Myths to avoid

2010-05-17T11:35:00.000-07:00

Courtesy of findlaw.com, I saw this myth and saw some of the myths on there, some aren't necessarily automotive, but a good chunk of them have to do with driving.

MYTH: You have to be over the legal Blood Alcohol Content (BAC) limit in order to be charged with Driving Under the Influence.

FACT: In most states, it's illegal to drive a car while "impaired" by the effects of alcohol or drugs (including prescription drugs). This means that there must be enough alcohol or drugs in the driver's body to prevent him from thinking clearly or driving safely. Many people get to this point before they are at the BAC limit, which is now .08% in all states. That means that someone who is not at or above the legal limit can still be charged with a DUI if their ability to operate a motor vehicle has been impaired.

MYTH: A written contract can't be broken.

FACT: Actually, parties can get out of written contracts in many ways. For instance, if the contract wasn't created adequately, courts will declare it not to be binding. Also, a contract is unenforceable when the terms are unconscionable - in other words, when the contract is patently unfair to one of the parties. The actual terms of a contract might also contain conditions under which the contract will be dissolved.

MYTH: If someone breaks into your house, you have the right to use lethal force against them.

FACT: While most jurisdictions protect a homeowner's right to defend their family and their property, not all that do allow the homeowner to use lethal force. Moreover, even jurisdictions that do allow for the use of lethal force require that the homeowner reasonable believed that the intruder meant to inflict death or serious bodily injury on them or their family.

MYTH: An error on a traffic ticket voids the ticket.

FACT: This isn't usually the case. For minor errors, there are administrative procedures that courts can use to modify information entered on a traffic ticket.

MYTH: If the police don't read a person their Miranda rights when arresting them, they can't be convicted of the crime.

FACT: We all know that police are supposed to advise an arrestee of their right to remain silent and their right to an attorney, but the failure to do so won't result in the case against the arrestee being dismissed. Instead, a judge might not allow any statements the arrestee made while in police custody to come in as evidence against them. This might make it harder to convict the person, but they could still be found guilty if there is sufficient alternative evidence.

MYTH: If a person is driving a car without a license and is injured in an accident, they can't recover damages if the accident isn't their fault.

FACT: Whether or not a person is driving with a license won't affect their recovery if the other driver was at fault.

MYTH: Couples who live together for six years are considered married.

FACT: Not all states recognize "common law" marriages, and even the ones that do have additional requirements. The amount of time that a couple has cohabitated is not the sole determinant of whether or not the couple has entered into a common law marriage.

MYTH: Car insurance won't cover you if someone other than your spouse or a family member is driving your car.

FACT: Many policies actually will cover you in these circumstances. Check with your insurance provider to see if your policy includes this provision, or, if it doesn't, whether or not you can add it on.

MYTH: An undercover police officer always has to admit that they're a cop.

FACT: Police officers are allowed to use deception to fight crime, as long as they don't intimidate or harass someone into committing a crime that they otherwise would not commit. If police officers had to reveal that they were cops it would put their lives in jeopardy, so there is no requirement that undercover officers reveal themselves when asked.

MYTH: Every nonprofit (and every donation to a non-profit) is tax-exempt.

FACT: In order for a nonprofit to gain tax exempt status, it must fit the requirements of Section 501(c)(3) of the U.S. tax code. Donors who make a qualifying donation to a 501(c)(3) organization are entitled to list the donation as a deduction, but donations to groups that haven't been granted tax-exempt status under 501(c)(3) are not tax deductible.

This list comes courtesy of Kevin Fayle.

It's Car, It's an Android, It A Cardroid or is it an AndCar?

2010-05-14T07:56:00.000-07:00

Android Devices May Control Some GM Car Functions

Adam Dickter
Newfactor.com
05/13/2010

There's never a dull minute at Google headquarters, it seems. In between developing and improving its search engine, a budding online cell-phone business, planning a tablet computer, a pending e-book store, and ongoing computer cloud operations, the Mountain View, Calif.-based corporation appears to be working with General Motors to add more computer functions to cars.

The Wall Street Journal reported Thursday that Google and GM hope to pair OnStar, GM's onboard communication, security and navigation system, with Google's increasingly popular Android operating system to make smartphones into remote controls for some car functions (but not driving).

'Significant News'
The report was not confirmed by Google, but OnStar President J. Christopher Preuss announced on his Facebook page that the company will have significant news next week, the Journal reported.

It's unclear from the reports whether the OnStar-Android collaboration would mean more online operations inside the car, as Ford and Microsoft announced they would do with Ford Sync. That announcement was in January at the Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegas.

Safe-driving advocates like the American Automobile Association have raised alarms about the integration of cars and computers at a time when driver distraction, including cell-phone use and texting, is already being blamed for more than one million accidents per year.

"If done right, there's little or no distraction issue," said Michel Gartenberg, a partner at the technology consulting firm Altimeter Group. He said cars are one of the last frontiers of unconnected time in the lives of increasingly wired Americans.

"Car screens are among the last of those that are disconnected. In a world of 33 screens and a cloud, that won't stay the case for long," Gartenberg said. "Vendors are going to find ways to make the auto a connected device and a key part of their strategy going forward."

But Avi Greengart of Current Analysis sees the Android-OnStar marriage as potentially rocky. "The problem with automotive and consumer electronics is that they are on radically different development cycles," he said. "Cars are designed over a three- to five-year period while CE is developed in 12- to 36-month time frames. That said, Ford has done a nice job turning electronics-feature content into a competitive advantage, so it is no surprise that GM would want to compete here as well."

Call Your Engine
An OnStar mobile app unveiled at CES will let owners of the Chevrolet Volt, a state-of-the-art hybrid car that hits the market in November, to start the car, open the trunk, keep track of the car's battery, and check mileage and maintenance statistics. An enhanced Android-OnStar system may soon allow such interaction with gas-powered vehicles.

Ford has announced plans to let consumers integrate their digital lives with their driving experience "by modeling ourselves after the consumer electronics industry." Some cars will allow USB broadband modems to create mobile Wi-Fi hot spots for devices used by passengers. Others will have dashboards with enhanced navigation and satellite radio, as well as web surfing and downloading -- enabled only when the car is in park.
Ford is working with Microsoft and Sony on its Ford Sync entertainment and communication system. Its MyTouch control system, which will be available in the 2011 Ford Edge, Lincoln MKX, and the 2012 Ford Focus, is intended to greet the driver by name and remember settings and preferences.

Why does Hawaii get all the neat stuff?

2010-05-13T14:25:00.000-07:00

Hydrogen fueling stations to be tested in Hawaii

AP - Associated Press
05/11/2010

HONOLULU – The Gas Co. and General Motors Co. have teamed up on a pilot project to test hydrogen refueling technology for fuel cell vehicles in Hawaii.

The companies said Tuesday that the project will take advantage of The Gas Co.'s 1,000 miles of pipeline on Oahu and its ability to produce hydrogen at its plant at Campbell Industrial Park, which makes synthetic natural gas from byproducts of imported petroleum.

The gasses would be separated at fueling stations located along the pipeline so fuel cell vehicles could use the hydrogen.

"This is the type of enabler that a hydrogen transportation infrastructure needs because it addresses both the source of the hydrogen and a feasible way to deliver it for fuel cell vehicle use," said Charles Freese, executive director of GM Global Fuel Cell Activities. "The Hawaii infrastructure could eventually support tens of thousands of fuel cell vehicles.

"Hawaii is uniquely positioned and motivated to make hydrogen-powered fuel cell transportation a reality because it depends on imported petroleum for 90 percent of its energy," he said.

The companies said the project goes along with the state's goal of obtaining 70 percent of its energy from clean sources by 2030.

"We have been delivering as much as 12 percent hydrogen made from renewable sources to our gas customers over the last two to three years and expect we can deliver even greater quantities of hydrogen as demand increases," said Jeffrey Kissel, president and CEO of The Gas Co. "By delivering hydrogen through our existing infrastructure as vehicle fuel wherever we have gas, The Gas Co. expands its key role of supporting Hawaii's clean energy future."

Depending on how the pricing for the hydrogen is set, it could be available at the equivalent price of gasoline or less, the companies said.

Sen. Dan Inouye, D-Hawaii, said he supports the project.
"It is an important step forward in the establishment of a hydrogen transportation infrastructure upon which new fleets, both military and civilian, can be tested and utilized," Inouye said in the companies' announcement.

"Every step to reduce our dependency on foreign oil is a move forward," he said.
Detroit-based GM said it has invested more than $1.5 billion in fuel cell transportation in the last 15 years, and is developing a production-intent fuel cell system that could be ready for commercialization in 2015.

The Gas Co. is a subsidiary of Macquarie Infrastructure Co.

Stopping Brake Myths in Their Tracks

2010-05-05T06:02:00.003-07:00

1. All Brake Pads are Created Equal.

One of the greatest myths out there is that you won't use the full potential of your brakes because of your driving style. As we all know, life happens, and the one time you need to use the full potential of your brake system, the performance isn't going to be measured in dollars and cents, but in inches and feet.

2. The more lube, the less noise.

Blasting a set of pads with lubricant or caliper slides with lubricant, no matter how expensive they are will not solve a noise issue for an extended period of time. Because lubricant can melt or flash off; worse yet can find its way over the pads making your car "judder" when you brake and increase stopping distance.

When your brakes are over-lubricated, they have a nasty habit of attracting dirt and debris, so as it hardens it becomes as soft as concrete, and if that build up happens to find its way onto the caliper body, you will have to get the caliper replaced because the rubber boot on the caliper is going to be damaged.

3. Rotors Warp.

Rotors do not warp, it was a theory that came out in the 70s to try to wrap a couple different phenomenom in clothing that the layman can understand. These are Brake Torque Variation (BTV) and Disc Thickness Variation (DTV).

BTV is a variation of torque across the face of the rotor. Normally this is caused by uneven deposits of friction material across the face of the rotor, which causes the brakes to slip and grab alternately.

DTV is the second part of this equation. DTV is calculated by measuring the thickness of the rotor in several different places, the subtracting the thinnest measurement from the thickest measurement.

As the thickness variations of the rotor pass through the caliper the piston will move in and out that causes the pulsation that you are feeling. Most vehicles are designed with DTV tolerances of 17 microns or less (about the width of a human hair). Normally if the difference is 15 microns or more in DTV, then you will get that pulsating feedback through your brake pedal.

3. All Rotors are the same.

How many times have I written this already? How many times will I write this in the future? Vehicles are designed from the tires up, just because the rotor from your 2008 Colorado 1WT fits on your 2010 Silverado LS does not mean that is the right rotor for your vehicle. The wrong rotor also will develop a run-out or BTV and DTV. Low price/low quality rotors may have compromises in structure or metallurgy that make sense to the wallet in the short term, but will affect performance long-term.

4. New Rotors need to be machined.

Re-read that third sentence in the section above, vehicles are designed from the tires up. When rotors come out of the box, they are supposed to be finished to specifications and ready to install.

There should be no reason to give them a clean-up cut. If they do need one, then it better be the suggestion of the vehicle manufacturer. Normally when you machine new rotors, you shorten the life of the rotors, but also may leave a rougher finish on the rotors that leads to BTV and DTV.

5. Shims are not required.

Alright, say it with me. Vehicles are designed from the tires up!!! If you get nothing else out of what I write about in this blog, you will gain an appreciation of the design work that goes into an individual model of a vehicle.

Shims are an important component of the brake system, not only to create a boundry layer to prevent vibration from being transferred to the caliper and knuckle, but also allow heat to be shunted off instead of being transferred to the piston. Because of the important role that shims play in todays vehicles they should always be replaced along with your brake pads.

6. You work on all brakes the same.

Just because it looks the same doesn't mean it is the same. You may miss something as simple as a torque specification for a caliper bracket to being as complex as disarming the ABS before pulling the brakes apart. You should always have access to current repair information if you are going to do it yourself, if not then make sure your repair shop has the most current information. That way you are not coming back to get something fixed that should have been done correctly the first time.

7. Dial indicators and calipers do not exist.

This is akin to saying the internet does not exist. There are shops out there that will make this claim or claim they are unnecessary or too costly. It really doesn't matter what the excuse is for not having the tools, if the shop doesn't have the tools to measure the rotor, then turn your car around and get it to a shop that has the proper tools to test your vehicle and repair it.

Comebacks start small

2010-05-04T14:15:00.000-07:00

Yes, we know that GM paid off its loan, even though it still has to refinish paying off its bailout with a stock offering later this year. But here are signs that I find more encouraging to GMs health other than profit reports or repayment notices.

The first one is that they are adding jobs to their plant in southern Indiana.

And a fairly large investment to make the V-8s more fuel efficient.

Like I said, its the small steps that you need to keep an eye on.

The right tools for the job

2010-05-03T06:07:00.000-07:00

Man sails around island

Rueters
April 28, 2010
Reporting by Michael Holden

LONDON (Reuters) – A man who thought he was sailing along the coast of southern England had to be rescued by emergency services after his motor boat ran out of fuel while repeatedly circling a small island in the River Thames estuary.

The man, who had no nautical guides and only had a roadmap to navigate by, had been trying to sail from Gillingham, about 35 miles east of London, to Southampton on April 19 by following the southern coast of England.

But he ended simply doing laps of the 36-square mile Isle of Sheppey a short distance away in the mouth of the Thames.

Eventually a lifeboat and coastguard were sent to rescue him after he used up all his fuel and ran aground, officials said on Wednesday. He told them he had been trying to navigate by keeping the coastline to his right.
"He was attempting to travel around the UK from Medway to Southampton and had somehow lost his bearings and ended up traveling around the Isle of Sheppey," said Robin Castle, a member of the local lifeboat station.

"It seems he didn't have the usual maritime charts or navigational equipment."

Ed. Note: That last quote is the understatement of the last 2000 years.

Daniel-san.....wax on.....wax off

2010-04-14T08:14:00.000-07:00

Sometimes it is amazing some of the myths and legends that arise in the automobile world, but some of the fun ones always have to do with wax. The main reason is that people don't appreciate what wax really does, which is provide additional protection to your paint by not allowing substances to bond or react with the paint.

Myth: A finish that looks glossy is in good condition.

Fact: Just because it looks glossy doesn't mean that it is. The best way to check this is to use your hand, just run your hand over the car, if it feels as smooth as glass, then the finish is in good condition, if you can feel bumps that could mean general decay, maybe dirt or droppings or sap mist has come in contact with your vehicle.

Myth: Oxidation is a major problem for factory paint.

Fact: Up to 5 to 10 years ago, this was a fact. But now with new paint formulations that are being used, the old standby of factory paint not being as good as a third party paint just doesn't hold water.

Myth: Clear-coat finishes don't require waxing.

Fact: Clear-coat is another layer of paint so it is subject to the same forces of oxidation as pigmented paint is. So you will still want to wax your vehicle periodically using wax that is labeled as being safe for clear-coats.

Myth: A wax made of 100-percent carnauba is superior to those using lesser amounts.

Fact: Carnauba has been a favorite for years, but there isn't any 100 percent formulation of carnauba wax. Carnauba is the hardest natural wax known, and it is way too hard to apply directly to your automotbile's paint. What happens is that the carnauba is shipped in bricks to the company that makes your wax and it is added to the formulation. When a wax is advertised as "pure carnauba" its refering to the fact the carnauba isn't mixed with a lesser natural wax, not that the only ingredient is carnauba wax.

Myth: Avoid a silicone-based wax, unless you never want to be able to repaint your vehicle.

Fact: Its true that if there is silicone on the sheetmetal when its painted the paint will not be able to adhere to the metal properly. However, once the paint has adhered to the metal, then silicone isn't an issue. In fact, most waxes use silicone because it helps with the ease of application, improves the look of gloss and helps make it more durable. Also if repainting is necessary, a body shop can take the wax off as part of the prep process.

Myth: With easy-care formulas, paint scratches can be easily reomved by hand.

Fact: Scratches can be temorarily filled with some products, but will reappear with your first wash. The only way to remove scratches is to use a wax with an abbrasive that will remove some of the surrounding paint making the scratch seem less deep. For more advanced deeper scratches the solutions may range from an orbital bufffer to wet sanding the affected area.

Myth: Machine buffins is dangerous for paint.

Fact: There are different types of machines designed for buffing and polishing, and all are safe when matched with the right skill level. An orbital buffer, is the least aggressive type and can be easily used by the average do-it-yourselfer. A dual-action polisher is slightly more aggressive and therefore requires more care and skill to use safely. Finally, a professional-type rotary polisher can remove paint relatively quickly, making it a good choice for fixing damaged paint. This same trait, however, also makes it easier to burn through a paint layer unless used by an experienced person.

Myth: Swirl marks or spider-webbing are found mostly in old or abused paint.

Fact: Even brand-new paint can show spider-webbing (very light scratches, normally in a circular pattern that are most easly seen in a reflection off the surface). There are a number of products on the market that will remove this. However, your best way to take care of it is to find out what is causing it and eliminate the cause if at all possible.

Myth: A good paint protectant can protect against fire.

Fact: This is like going to a magic show. Its all sleight of hand, because if you've ever played around with lighter fluid or rubbing alcohol you understand it is the fumes that feed the fire, not the liquid. So you should be able to place your hand where the flame was and feel very little excess heat coming off the metal where the flame was. Now if the guy is hitting with a flame thrower, then I'm going to be inclined to listen to that claim.

Another candidate for America's Dumbest Criminal

2010-04-14T06:04:00.000-07:00

Trooper finds passed out teen in squad car.

AP
04/13/2010

SALEM, Ore. – An Oregon State Police trooper pulled up next to a parked Marion County sheriff's patrol car late Saturday expecting to talk to the deputy. Instead he found an 18-year-old passed out over the steering wheel. State police said the Ford Mustang had been stolen from the deputy's home.

The Statesman Journal reported the sheriff's office wasn't aware it was stolen until it got a call from troopers.

The 18-year-old was jailed and released the next day on $2,500 bail. The Ford Mustang, used in a traffic safety team, was not damaged.

Ed. Note: The rules on this one should be simple, but if you can't understand that entire "Thou shalt not steal" thing. But here goes the rules so he knows what to do when he gets out of jail in 2-5 years.

1. Don't steal a car that the owner might miss.

2. Make sure your target vehicle is not a police car.

3. Make sure your victim is not a cop.

4. Don't pass out in the vehicle you've stolen.

5. Did I mention to make sure your victim is not a cop?

Batteries....what batteries?

2010-04-13T12:03:00.001-07:00

Well you discovered your problem is with the battery and you up and replaceced it. Here are some thing to do to keep in mind to help you get the maximum life out of your battery, even if it is a maintenance free battery.

1. Cleaning the terminals on the battery. You should do this once every 3 months with a wire brush. You can also purchase specially made brushes to clean out the fitting that is attached to the positive and negative cables as well as the terminal posts on the battery. If you have a side post battery where the cable connects to a side terminal using a bolt that attaches the cable to the battery you may also want to use compressed air to clean out the hole after you have scrubbed the inside of it.

2. If you see a white substance build up around the terminal posts, then you have some leakage out of the battery. At this point it would be a good idea to replace the battery before, because that escape of water and acid is doing the same thing to the plates inside the battery, so if you do get the battery recharged it isn't going to hold as long.

3. If your car is not going to run for two weeks or more, then you will want to disconnect the cable attaced to the negative terminal on the battery. This will keep systems like the stereo, alarm, and lights from drawing energy while in storage.

4. Start up and drive. If you don't use your vehicle that often, it is still important to have the alternator charge the battery, drive the car for atleast 20 minutes 2 times a week.

Catalytic whatsamacallits?

2010-04-13T07:10:00.001-07:00

The year is 1974, there is just a basic understanding of how important the environment is. Just five years removed from the Cuyahoga catching fire, and 4 years removed from the first Earth Day, but still 4 years aways from the horrors of Love Canal, and 5 years away from a nation being terrorized by Three Mile Island.

A small device makes its debut from General Motors Corporation in response to the Clean Air Act of 1970. It has the inauspicious name of the Catalytic Converter. But it will have a very big future.

So what does a Catalytic Converter do exactly?

As your car uses gasoline the exhaust is passed through the converter that is attached to the tailpipe after the exhaust manifold but before the muffler. As the gas passes through the converter and the ceramic honeycomb or beads that are coated with a catalyst of a mixture of platinum, palladium, and/or rhodium, the carbon monoxide is converted into carbon dioxide, excess hydrocarbons (most likely excess gasoline) is converted into carbon dioxide and water, and Nitrogen Oxide is broken into Nitrogen and Oxygen.

Okay, I know what it does, why do they get stolen so often?

For the same reason that stereos and air bags are stolen, they are light weight and bring in money. There are repair shops that purchase stolen parts to get jobs done, or sold to scrap metal dealers who in turn sell the components to recycling companies that can melt down the metals and separate them for sale. There was a peaking of catalytic converter thefts in 2008 when Platinum was at 2000USD per ounce, Palladium was at 445USD, and Rhodium was at 7300USD.

But I was told that I should take the catalytic convert off my car.

Okay here we go again, cars are engineered from the ground up. This isn't like the original catalytic converters in the 70s that were put on engines that were designed in the 50s or 60s so with those vehicles performance was affected. Removing converters from today's vehicles will reduce performance much like adding them affected performance in the 70s.

Cleaning your classic car

2010-04-12T14:08:00.001-07:00

There are some things you can get away with when it comes to an old car, but if you have the original interior in good shape and are trying to keep it that way, then here are some things you may want to use instead of more modern cleaners.

1. Vacuum - I know, this goes into the "here's your sign category" but I've seen too many people trying to use a small handbroom to clean dirt out of carpet and nooks. The only time you should be using one is if you are trying to clean an area that does not have carpeting.

2. Soft cloths and non-abrasive sponges - Use these to rub the dash, assist with cleaning the seats and removing built up gunk from the steering column and instrument panel.

3. Water – This is the original cleaning agent. Use it first to try and remove stains, spills and built up gunk. If water and cloth along will not do the trick, move on to other cleaning agents.

4. Leather cleaner – If the seats are made from leather and you are positive of this, use a high quality leather cleaner and softener to clean and protect the material. Be sure not to rub too hard. Do not give in and use abrasives to clean dirt out of cracks either. If you can, go with the original leather cleaner, saddle soap.

5. Vinyl cleaner – A mild vinyl cleaner can be used in place of leather cleaner if the seats are made from this synthetic material.

6. Softener or polish – Keep in mind that vinyl and leather can dry out and crack. To prevent damage or stop it from getting worse, be sure to treat leather or vinyl seats and dashboards with a softening agent. Select one made for the specific interior in the classic you own.

7. Carpet/upholstery cleaner – Find the gentlest cleaner designed for automotive use and apply it sparingly to upholstery and carpeting. Test the cleaner in an inconspicuous spot, too. This will help you determine if any bleeding will occur.

8. Newspaper – When this combines with water or window cleaner getting the windshield cleaned will be a snap. Just spray the windshield and use the newsprint like you would paper towel. Newspaper removes worry about streaking and is gentle enough not to scratch glass surfaces.

9. Baking soda – If the interior of the car smells musty, open a few boxes of cheap baking soda and allow them to sit inside the vehicle for a few hours. Baking soda will pull out a lot of odors from the air and leave the vehicle smelling fresher in little time at all.

The harsher cleaners are fine to use on newer cars because of the changes that occur with protectant formulations, the older cars deserve a gentle touch, and remember when it comes to cleaning the interior of your classic car, less is more.

Bueller? Bueller?

2010-04-12T13:49:00.000-07:00

"Spyder" from Ferris Bueller's Day Off Up for auction and no kind words from Matthew Broderick

Yahoo! Movie Talk
Mike Ryan

In "Ferris Bueller's Day Off," before taking a daylong joyride with a rare sports car, the title character asks, "If you had access to a car like this, would you take it back right away? Neither would I."

Ferris did not heed his best friend's pleas to return the Ferrari. But, in real life, Matthew Broderick, who played Ferris in the 1986 cult classic, might not have driven it in the first place.

While Ferris famously described the car as "choice," Broderick has some choice words for the faux (hold that thought) 1961 Ferrari 250GT California Spyder, which will be put up for auction in London by Bonhams on April 19.

That's right, the car in question is not actually a 1961 Ferrari 250GT California Spyder. In reality, it's an MG that was modified to resemble the GT. Or, as Broderick calls it, "a kit car."

"We had a real Ferrari that we looked at in the garage, but when we drove, it was not real, and that's what this is," Broderick told New York Magazine at the opening night of Broadway's "The Addams Family."

Broderick went on to describe what the future owner can enjoy. "My memory of that car is that it often didn't start. That's all I remember." He continued, "Which I probably shouldn't say; I don't want to bring the price down. But, uh, it was unreliable, that car."

The auction house is hoping that the car will go for between $45,000 and $60,000. In 2008, an actual 1961 Ferrari California Spyder sold at auction for just under $11 million.

Ed. Note: Well if we could afford a 61 Spyder, then we'd be good. But we'll take a kit car that was driven by Chicago's most driven slacker as a good second prize.

Field of Dreams

2010-04-12T13:41:00.000-07:00

Chevy builds a baseball diamond, you win a car

Chevy has long promoted youth baseball programs by providing equipment, instructional clinics and other support. Now, Chevy and Scotts are reaching out to communites and rebuilding local ballparks nationwide.

Enter for a chance to bring a local diamond to your area back to life. When you do, you'll also be entered for a chance to win your choice of a select Chevy car, truck, or crossover.

Just click on the link above, or below to get a chance to bring a field of dreams to your town.

Building diamonds

Another one of America's dumbest criminals.

2010-04-12T08:56:00.000-07:00

Drunk Driving to Jail

Associated Press
04/09/2010

SPRINGFIELD, Vt. – Police said a Massachusetts man headed to a Vermont prison to serve a two-day sentence for driving under the influence was intoxicated when he drove himself to prison.

Vermont State Police say that staff at the Southern State Correctional Facility in Springfield noticed that a 42-year-old man was intoxicated when he arrived late Tuesday afternoon and that he had driven himself there.

So prison staff called police.

Police said the man was then processed for DUI second offense and released back into the custody of the Department of Corrections.

The man was due to appear in court later this month on the latest charge.

Ed. Note: You know at some point maybe, just maybe, you have to say you have a problem.

Car charging systems

2010-04-09T07:36:00.001-07:00

What is the car's charging system?

An automotive charging system is made up of three major components: the battery, the voltage regulator and an alternator. The alternator works with the battery to generate power for the electrical components of a vehicle, like the interior and exterior lights, and the instrument panel. An alternator gets its name from the term alternating current (AC).

On to the battery:

As you know already, without a battery, your car is going to have one heck of a time running. But the battery is only one component of the main electrical system of your vehicle. The other side of the electrical system that powers your car is the alternator. Lets start by talking about the battery.

A battery, in concept, can be any device that stores energy for later use. A rock, pushed to the top of a hill, can be considered a kind of battery, since the energy used to push it up the hill (chemical energy, from muscles or combustion engines) is converted and stored as potential kinetic energy at the top of the hill. Later, that energy is released as kinetic and thermal energy when the rock rolls down the hill. Not real practical for everyday use though.

Common use of the word, "battery" in electrical terms, is limited to an electrochemical device that converts chemical energy into electricity, by a galvanic cell. A galvanic cell is a fairly simple device consisting of two electrodes of different metals or metal compounds (an anode and a cathode) and an electrolyte (usually acid, but some are alkaline) solution. A "Battery" is two or more of those cells in series, although many types of single cells are usually referred to as batteries - such as flashlight batteries.

As noted above, a battery is an electrical storage device. Batteries do not make electricity, they store it, just as a water tank stores water for future use. As chemicals in the battery change, electrical energy is stored or released. In rechargeable batteries this process can be repeated many times. Batteries are not 100% efficient - some energy is lost as heat and chemical reactions when charging and discharging. If you use 1000 watts from a battery, it might take 1050 or 1250 watts or more to fully recharge it.

Part - or most - of the loss in charging and discharging batteries is due to internal resistance. This is converted to heat, which is why batteries get warm when being charged up. The lower the internal resistance, the better.

Slower charging and discharging rates are more efficient. A battery rated at 180 amp-hours over 6 hours might be rated at 220 AH at the 20-hour rate, and 260 AH at the 48-hour rate. Much of this loss of efficiency is due to higher internal resistance at higher amperage rates - internal resistance is not a constant - kind of like "the more you push, the more it pushes back".

Typical efficiency in a lead-acid battery is 85-95%, in alkaline and NiCad battery it is about 65%. True deep cycle AGM's (such as Concorde and Deka) can approach 98%.

Batteries are divided in two ways, by application (what they are used for) and construction (how they are built). The major applications are automotive, marine, and deep-cycle. Deep-cycle includes solar electric (PV), backup power, and RV and boat "house" batteries. The major construction types are flooded (wet), gelled, and AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat). AGM batteries are also sometimes called "starved electrolyte" or "dry", because the fiberglass mat is only 95% saturated with Sulfuric acid and there is no excess liquid.

Flooded may be standard, with removable caps, or the so-called "maintenance free" (these are sealed batteries that you cannot re-add acid or water to). All gelled are sealed and are "valve regulated", which means that a tiny valve keeps a slight positive pressure. Nearly all AGM batteries are sealed valve regulated (commonly referred to as "VRLA" - Valve Regulated Lead-Acid). Most valve regulated are under some pressure - 1 to 4 psi at sea level.

You put the key in the ignition, and the car starts, but what happens under the hood?

Turning the key over sends a signal to the solenoid on the starter to move to the "On" position, when it does this, a flow of electricity goes from the battery to the solenoid that engages the starter and moves the flywheel allowing the pistons to compress air and gas in the cylinders, at the same time the distributor is also moved to the on position and gets intial current from the battery to send to the corresponding spark plug to create a spark allowing combustion to happen inside the cylinder.

What is an alternator?

Alternator (n.) - An electric generator that produces alternating current.

That definition tells you as much as getting a file from the CIA. The alternator has two jobs, carry the electrical load of the vehicle while the motor is running and recharge the battery.

Alternators are typically found near the front of the engine and are driven by the crankshaft, which converts the pistons' up-and-down movement into circular movement. Some early model vehicles used a separate drive belt from the crankshaft pulley to the alternator pulley, but most cars today have a serpentine belt, or one belt that drives all components that rely on crankshaft power. Most alternators are mounted using brackets that bolt to a specific point on the engine. One of the brackets is usually a fixed point, while the other is adjustable to tighten the drive belt.

What is a voltage regulator?

The voltage regulator of a car could be one of two types. The grounded voltage regulator regulates the amount of negative ground that goes into the rotor, while the grounded field voltage regulator controls the amount of positive ground that goes into the rotor. Both actions change the amount of direct current created by the alternator, which increases or decreases the amount of current provided to the battery as necessary to keep the amount of current within safe levels.

Okay now I know what the parts are and how long winded you can get explaining batteries. So how can I tell if I have a problem with one thing or another?

Voltage regulators will be a pretty fast diagnosis because if you are blowing out fuses or your radio or other electronics experience damage or get way too hot, that will tell you they are getting too much power.

However, that is fairly unlikely. Most issues with the charging system will revolve around the battery and alternator. Normally this will be due to the fact that you are not able to start the vehicle, or it will shut off at a very inoppurtune moment. Most shops and parts stores will be able to test your alternator to see if it has failed.

If you know the alternator is good then the battery needs to be worked on or replaced. If your battery is a maintenance free battery, you'll need to replace the battery. However if it is not, you may be able to recondition the battery by having acid and distilled water added to bring the specific gravity of the battery back to a point where it can continue to be used. If you are going to have this done, have it done by a mechanic or battery specialist. The reason is that these people will have the proper safety and testing equipment to recondition the battery.

If the alternator needs to be replaced, you can do this job yourself, because with most alternators you have 2 wiring clips and 2 bolts to remove, but you will be doing a lot of swearing in the process of trying to get the serpentine belt back on correctly and the tension roller back into the right position.

Why do I want ABS???

2010-04-08T11:11:00.000-07:00

ABS for beginners:

Like most standard features on today's automobiles, Antilock Braking Systems (ABS) started out as a fancy extra on high end vehicles. As the safety benefits became more widely known, it became a must have, much like air bags 10 years before.

ABS has steadily evolved and improved over the years, getting smaller, lighter, faster and smarter. Many of today’s ABS systems also incorporate traction control to prevent wheel spin when accelerating on slick surfaces, and stability control to improve handling and driving safety under all driving conditions.

The basic idea behind ABS is to maximize braking traction and steering control by minimizing wheel slip when braking. A tire that is just on the verge of slipping produces more friction with respect to the road surface than one which is locked and skidding. Once a tire loses its grip and skids, friction is reduced and the vehicle takes longer to stop. Directional stability also is lost, which may allow the vehicle to fishtail, spin or slide to either side.

The only exception to this rule is when a tire is braking on loose snow. A locked tire allows a small wedge of snow to build up ahead of it. This actually allows the vehicle to stop in a shorter distance than if ABS were allowing the tires to roll. Because of this, some cars have an ABS on/off switch so the driver can deactivate the system when driving on snow.

So How does ABS work?

No matter what type of ABS system is on a vehicle, they all control tire slip by monitoring the relative deceleration rates of the wheels when braking. If one wheel starts to slow at a faster rate than the others, it’s an indication that the wheel is starting to slip and is in danger of locking up and skidding. The ABS system responds by cycling hydraulic pressure in the wheel’s brake circuit. A solenoid valve in the ABS hydraulic control unit closes to isolate the brake circuit. Then another solenoid opens to momentarily vent pressure. This releases the brake and allows the wheel to regain momentum and traction.

By rapidly cycling the brakes on and off from three to 15 times per second (the speed varies with the capabilities of the system), traction is maintained, the wheels don’t lock up and the vehicle stops straight. The driver can usually hear a buzzing or ratcheting noise from the ABS unit, and feel the rapid pulsations in the brake pedal. This provides feedback to the driver that the ABS system is kicking in and doing its thing to help prevent skidding.

What does it mean when the ABS light goes on?

All ABS systems have self-diagnostic capability and run various self-tests when a vehicle starts out on a trip to check for faults. If a fault is found, it will set a trouble code and turn on the ABS warning light (and/or traction control light or stability control light is so equipped).

Most faults that are serious enough to turn on the ABS warning light will also deactivate the ABS system. Consequently, the ABS system won’t be able to intervene should it be needed until the fault is diagnosed and repaired. This requires a scan tool that has software that can access the ABS systems and codes. An ordinary scan tool or code reader can’t do this because it only reads powertrain codes. So step one in diagnosing any ABS problem is to plug in a scan tool that can read ABS codes.

Once a technician has a code, it will give him a pretty good idea of what might be wrong. Like powertrain codes, a code by itself won’t always tell you which part needs to be replaced. But it will identify the type of fault and/or the part of the system where the fault occurred.

Common ABS faults include codes for bad accumulators (usually a low-pressure code or a failure to hold pressure code), codes for wheel speed sensor circuits (which may be the sensor, sensor ring, sensor wiring connector or wiring harness) and ABS solenoid codes.

So what kind of problems can you experience with ABS?

The accumulator is usually a small metal ball or canister with a nitrogen-filled bladder inside. Over time, the rubber bladder can crank and leak, preventing the accumulator from holding pressure. The o-ring at the base of the accumulator may also leak. Accumulators will be pressurized to 1500-2600 PSI, even if it is cracked or leaking it may contain a lot of residual pressure, which is why you need to follow ABS disarming instruction to the letter.

The air gap between the tip of the sensor and the teeth on the rotating steel tone ring is critical for an accurate wheel speed signal. The teeth must also be rust-free and undamaged to produce a good signal. Common problems here include rusted and cracked or nicked sensor tone rings on exposed CV joints or inside sealed wheel bearings with integral wheel speed sensors. If the tone ring is badly corroded or damaged, it must be replaced — which means replacing the CV joint or axle on some applications, the brake rotor on others, or the wheel bearing and hub assembly if the sensor is inside the hub.

Magnetic wheel speed sensors can be checked with an ohmmeter to see if they are within specifications. A short or open, or excessive resistance calls for replacement. In some cases, just removing and cleaning the tip of the sensor to remove any debris that‘s sticking to the tip is all that’s needed to restore normal operation.
But if a code indicates a problem in a wheel speed sensor circuit and the sensor checks out okay, the fault is usually a bad tone ring.

Problems in the ABS hydraulic unit can be caused by internal rust and corrosion in the brake lines and solenoid valves. Most people totally ignore their brake fluid. If the fluid is not changed with the brakes are relined, the corrosion inhibitors can become depleted over time and allow rust to start eating away at the inside of the brake system. Little flakes of rust can become lodged in the ABS solenoid valves, preventing them from fully closing or causing them to leak or stick. ABS solenoids can also fail electrically by shorting out or going open. If this happens, the solenoid won’t move when commanded to do so by the ABS control module. Bad solenoids on some ABS systems can be replaced individually, but on many systems the whole ABS modulator unit has to be replaced if a single solenoid goes bad.

Other problems that can affect the operation of the ABS system include a bad power relay, blown fuse (which indicates a short or system overload), or even changes in tire/wheel sizes. ABS systems are programmed to work with the OEM wheels and tires. Replacing the stock wheels with larger diameter wheels or taller tires may adversely affect the way the system functions, making it overly sensitive or not sensitive enough.

The hydraulic units on many ABS systems are quite complex internally with lots or ports and passageways, so it’s essential that the system be completely bled to get rid of all the air. Some ABS modulators have a number of bleeder valves for this purpose, but the valves must be opened in a certain sequence to get rid of all the trapped air. This information can be found in a service manual or by going to the vehicle manufacturer’s technical Web site. Many ABS systems require a scan tool to cycle the ABS solenoids when bleeding the system. If this is not done, air will remain trapped inside the hydraulic unit and cause problems.

Changing oil

2010-04-08T07:27:00.001-07:00

So you want to change your oil. If you haven't done this before, it isn't as messy or as hard as some people would lead you to believe. Lets go over some of the things you will need.

1. A set of car ramps. This is mainly for low clearance vehicles such as cars to give you room to be able to move around comfortable. If you don't have a set of ramps, you can always always use a jack and jack stands to give you clearance also.

2. A chock for one of the rear tires. This helps minimize the chance of slipping or rolling when the car is up on a ramp or on a jack.

3. A Ratchet, short extension (1 or 2 inch), and socket to fit the oil pan drain bolt. Older vehicles will use an SAE measurement like 9/16" or 5/8". Newer vehicles will use a metric one like 11 or 12 mm on average. You can use a wrench if you want.

4. Filter wrench. This is designed to take off oil filters than were placed on too tightly.

5. Oil collection pan. You can go way old school like my dad when I was growing up and just use an old oversized pasta pan, but you can buy one that has a grating in it so even if you drop the drain bolt, you won't need to be searching around in the oil for it.

6. Teflon tape. This is a white tape with no glue on it that is used to maintain thread integrity by keeping dirt and moisture off the threads of bolts.

7. Rag, oil, and oil filter. You will want to check your car manufacturer's guide for how much oil and what type of oil filter to use with your vehicle.

Now that we have our tools and parts, lets get to changing the oil.

1. Drive the car up the ramps. The easiest way to accomplish this is the following; park the car with a foot or two left in front. Place the ramps in front of the two front tires, making sure that tires are straight. Gently apply pressure to the gas pedal and ease the car onto the top of the ramps. It is good to have someone assist you with positioning. When the car is on the ramps, correctly placed and none of either tire is hanging off, you can place the car in park and engage the hill / parking brake. Now go ahead and use your wheel chock behind one of the tires.

2. Turn the engine off. I know, to steal from Bill Engvall, this is a "Here's your sign" instruction. But I have seen people try to do this before. You may also need to allow some time for the engine to cool down, so take a few minutes and read through the rest of these instructions.

3. Open the hood and loosen the oil fill cap. This will allow the oil to drain more quickly because air can be displaced. Also this minimizes the chance of oil squirting off in some direction when you remove the drainage bolt.

4. Place the drain pan underneath drainage bolt. I know, but I've seen people miss this step also.

5. Use your ratchet or wrench to remove the oil drainage bolt. You may not see oil start to flow until the bolt is most of the way out. Once you have the bolt off, use your rag to clean it off. Take your teflon tape and wrap some clockwise around the threads of the bolt and break it off.

6. After the oil is finished draining, put the drain pan bolt back in and tighten it with your ratchet or wrench. A good rule of thumb for how tight to make it is to use the same amount of force to put it on as you used to take it off.

7. Slide the oil pan underneath the oil filter. Try to remove it by hand if you are able to. If not, then use your filter wrench to break the filter off then you can remove it by hand. If you have a screwdriver or awl handy, this is always a good time to break the anti-flow back valve on the old filter before letting it rest in the oil pan.

8. Before placing the new filter on, take and dip your finger into one of the new oil bottles and run your finger over the rubber seal on the base of the filter. This will provide a nice even seal.

9. Put the new filter on and tighten it by hand. Once you get resistance tightening the filter, turn it another 3/4 turn and the oil filter is reinstalled.

10. Go ahead and add your oil now. Since you've already checked your owners manual, you know how much oil is needed, so go ahead and start filling. I normally use a funnel to put in oil so then oil isn't getting dripped onto the engine and creating a real stink. After the oil is back in, replace the fill cap. Yes I want your hood to stay open still.

11. Remove you tire chock, start your car, disengage your parking brake and back your car off the ramps.

12. Check all your fluids. To check your transmission fluid the car needs to be running. Also watch underneath your car to make sure you do not have oil leaking.

13. After you're certain all your fluids are good to go, then close the hood, turn your car off. Write down the date you did the oil change and what the mileage was.

14. Recycle your oil by taking it to the fire station or your local auto parts dealer or dealership to have it recycled.

14. Over the next couple weeks pay close attention to the oil level to make sure you don't have a leak.

However, if you don't want to do that, you can always have us change your oil.

Gas Myths Exposed

2010-04-07T10:44:00.001-07:00

Where our Oil Comes From
Top Oil Producing Countries in the World
What affects the price of gasoline

With summer right around corner and the subsequent increase in gas prices, now is a good time to attack some myths that seem to make the rounds every year and gets everyone up in arms. Above are links for sites by the US Department of Energy that explain some things you may not know about oil production and gas prices.

Myth #1: We get most of our oil imports from the Middle East. We don't get most of our imports from the Middle East, as a percentage of imports, we get more than twice the oil from Canada (22.7% according from DOE import data for December 2009) than we do from Saudi Arabia(9.8% DOE estimate). In fact, the US is the worlds 3 largest oil producer behind Russia and Saudi Arabia, so you can dispel the myth of the US not producing large amounts of oil itself.

Myth #2: Company X only purchases Imported Crude/Gas and sells to Americans. This is a good myth that floats around with the xenophobic crowd. The reality is that there is no way to track this, Company X may import oil from Country Y, however they may refine the oil in the US, then ship to a third country for sale. Then just to muddy the waters further, Company Y ships the gasoline to a bulk terminal that they may not even own so it is being mixed with bulk gasoline from other refineries, where all the gas stations in a region purchase their gasoline from, the difference between BP Amoco to ExxonMobile to Joe's Gas Shack are the additives that are placed in the fuel as it is put into the tanker to be delivered. When you see those gas stations that say they only sell "American fuel" ask them if they guarantee the supply from well to your tank because that company would need to own the production field, a private pipeline, a private refinery and their own bulk terminal.

Myth #2: Gas is expensive due to environmental regulations. Yes there is cost associated with environmental regulations. But there are other pressing factors including federal and state excise taxes on gasoline, distance from a supplier, if there is anything that could create a supply issue (hurricane, earthquake, or if a refinery was damaged due to fire to name a few different things).

Myth #3: The US doesn't export any of the oil or gas it produces. The US does export oil and gas, sometimes it makes more sense logistically and financially to export oil and/or gas, then turn around and import it from somewhere else be it an Opec country, Northern Europe, Mexico, Canada, or some other oil producing nation.

Myth #4: Premium fuel is better for your vehicle. Not necessarily, octane refers to how much compression is needed before a fuel will combust with heated air. The higher the octane rating, the higher the pressure, the hotter the air. The best thing to do is look at your owner's manual and see what the preferred octane rating to be used with the engine is. Sometimes you may be told "regular unleaded" which for most of the country means an octane rating of 87, other times you may be instructed to use 89 or 92 octane. You can use higher octane fuel if you want, but it isn't going to give you better performance. However if you use a lower rated fuel you may experience knocking (a misfire in the cylinder) that is going to kill your mileage.

Not what we would call criminal masterminds!!!

2010-04-06T11:25:00.000-07:00

Teens kidnap and rob man

www.kcrg.com
03/29/2010

CEDAR RAPIDS - Police arrested two men Friday in connection with an armed robbery that had occurred earlier in the afternoon.

Cedar Rapids police spokeswoman Sgt. Cristy Hamblin said that after responding to a robbery at 501 16th St. NE at around 1:15 p.m., officers were met by Justin McDaniel, 20, who said that he had been robbed at gunpoint.

McDaniel had told officers that he was forced into a black van with five or six males in their late teens. McDaniel said one of the late teens was armed with a sawed-off shotgun and robbed him of everything in his pockets and shoes.

Police said McDaniel was released from the van somewhere in the 500 block of Coe Road NE.

The suspect’s description of the black van, which features a scantily clad women paint job, helped officers quickly locate the vehicle and apprehend those inside.

Hamblin said that the victim identified Ethan Ayers, 18, unknown address, as the one with who had robbed him.

Hamblin said that Ayers already had outstanding warrants for first degree robbery and assault bodily injury, and that he will be charged with first degree robbery and possession of offensive weapons.

Police also arrested Tavish Shackford, 18, of West Des Moines, for possession of marijuana with intent to deliver.

Hamblin said that the van, which advertises “Big Earl’s Gold mine,” a strip-club in Des Moines, was driven by the son of the registered owner. A manager at Big Earl’s had no comment.

Ayers is being held at Linn County Jail on $50,000 cash only bail. Shackford is being held there on a $10,000 bail.

Police are still investigating the incident and say that more charges might be forthcoming.

Ed. Note: So where do we start with Iowa's dumbest criminals? Could it be the garishly bedecked van? Could it be that van was registered to the father of one of the accused? You know, you figure if they were going to roll the poor kid for his money, the least they could have done was taken him to the aforementioned club.

Tool box essentials

2010-04-06T08:41:00.000-07:00

So you want to do some of your own work on your vehicle, that's great, nothing wrong with having some self-sufficiency, but before you go diving under the hood, here are some essentials that you will want to make sure you have in your tool box, in addition to your normal assortment of screwdrivers, pliers, and sockets.

1. Ratcheting Box Wrenches: These are great to have in your tool box, because there are times when you need the abilities of a ratchet in terms of applying extra torque to remove a bolt or nut, but only have enough space to get a wrench in. The prices aren't too bad for full sets depending on who you like, somewhere between 100 to 300 dollars for a full set of upper end wrenches (Craftsman, Snapon, Matco, Klein) but if you aren't able to afford that much you can still find brands such as Black & Decker and Husky that run in the 50 to 100 dollar range.

2. Digital Multi-meter: If you are trying to do any electrical troubleshooting, this is an essential. Not only will it allow you to test for power, but you can also test for continuity between components and resistance (important if you can't see the relay inside a fuse). A base level multi-meter by Sperry will run you between 15-20 dollars, up to spending a couple hundred dollars for a multi-meter by Fluke.

3. Wire-stripper: If you're going to be replacing wires, then you don't want to be trying to strip the wires with side-cutting pliers or a pocket-knife, you will want to invest in a good quality wire-stripper, you can get a Craftsman stripper for about 10 dollars, you can also get higher end ones from Klein or Ideal tools that cut the sheath and remove it from the wire for 35-45 dollars.

4. Allen and Torx head drivers. Not the ones that have the T-handle or are L shaped, but ones attached to a screwdriver handle. This is an ease of use issue. I own all three types, but for most placement of Allen and Torx head screws and bolts on vehicles, its just more comfortable to use a screwdriver handle.

5. Torque wrench. This should go without saying, but there are parts if you take them off, they have to be reattached with a specified amount of torque or else the part may become damaged. Note to the weak of pocket book, good torque wrenches are not cheap, they will run a minimum of 100 dollars and go up from there. But when you need a precise measurement of torque, you will get what you pay for.

6. Flourescent droplight/extension cord. If you've ever used an incandescent droplight, you know they are good if you are trying to stay warm, but if staying warm isn't an issue, then you will want to go with the flourescent because they run cooler, are almost unbreakable, and don't cast as much glare making it a lot easier to see what you are working on.

7. Non-contact IR temperature guage. These are good for checking the temperature to let you know of something going on, like a misfiring or dead cylinder, an underinflated tire, or a brake problem because you will be able to see a temperature difference.

8. A current repair manual for your vehicle that gives you step by step instructions on how to perform various repairs. Without this, all the tools in the world aren't going to help you fix your vehicle efficiently or correctly.

There are thousands of other items you can buy (literally), but most of them are used far and in-between because you are not always going to have need for a plasma cutter, oxy-acetylene torch, gear pullers, air rachets, or a glass beading cabinet.

What is it with kids and cars????

2010-04-05T12:49:00.000-07:00

8 year old crashes car

AP News
04/05/2010

BETHEL, Ohio – An Ohio man says his 8-year-old son was just trying to do him a favor and get gasoline when the boy drove the family's minivan and crashed it. James Crouch says he didn't even realize his son, Jordan, was out of the house Friday morning until a Clermont County sheriff's deputy came to the family's home in Bethel and woke him up to let him know what happened.

The boy says he used keys that he found in his mother's purse and backed the car out of the driveway. He started going down the road at about 5 mph but could barely reach the pedals and lost control, crashing into a telephone pole. He wasn't hurt.

Crouch says Jordan was still in his pajamas and just wanted to do something nice. He says he's going to watch his son more closely now.

Ed. Note: Can we start teaching driver's education in kindergarten?

Busting up brake repair myths

2010-04-05T08:35:00.000-07:00

1. All Brake Pads are Created Equal.

One of the greatest myths out there is that you won't use the full potential of your brakes because of your driving style. As we all know, life happens, and the one time you need to use the full potential of your brake system, the performance isn't going to be measured in dollars and cents, but in inches and feet.

2. The more lube, the less noise.

Blasting a set of pads with lubricant or caliper slides with lubricant, no matter how expensive they are will not solve a noise issue for an extended period of time. Because lubricant can melt or flash off; worse yet can find its way over the pads making your car "judder" when you brake and increase stopping distance.

When your brakes are over-lubricated, they have a nasty habit of attracting dirt and debris, so as it hardens it becomes as soft as concrete, and if that build up happens to find its way onto the caliper body, you will have to get the caliper replaced because the rubber boot on the caliper is going to be damaged.

3. Rotors Warp.

Rotors do not warp, it was a theory that came out in the 70s to try to wrap a couple different phenomenom in clothing that the layman can understand. These are Brake Torque Variation (BTV) and Disc Thickness Variation (DTV).

BTV is a variation of torque across the face of the rotor. Normally this is caused by uneven deposits of friction material across the face of the rotor, which causes the brakes to slip and grab alternately.

DTV is the second part of this equation. DTV is calculated by measuring the thickness of the rotor in several different places, the subtracting the thinnest measurement from the thickest measurement.

As the thickness variations of the rotor pass through the caliper the piston will move in and out that causes the pulsation that you are feeling. Most vehicles are designed with DTV tolerances of 17 microns or less (about the width of a human hair). Normally if the difference is 15 microns or more in DTV, then you will get that pulsating feedback through your brake pedal.

3. All Rotors are the same.

How many times have I written this already? How many times will I write this in the future? Vehicles are designed from the tires up, just because the rotor from your 2008 Colorado 1WT fits on your 2010 Silverado LS does not mean that is the right rotor for your vehicle. The wrong also will develop a run-out or BTV and DTV. Low price/low quality rotors may have compromises in structure or metallurgy that make sense to the wallet in the short term, but will affect performance long-term.

4. New Rotors need to be machined.

Re-read that third sentence in the section above, vehicles are designed from the tires up. When rotors come out of the box, they are supposed to be finished to specifications and ready to install.

There should be no reason to give them a clean-up cut. If they do need one, then it better be the suggestion of the vehicle manufacturer. Normally when you machine new rotors, you shorten the life of the rotors, but also may leave a rougher finish on the rotors that leads to BTV and DTV.

5. Shims are not required.

Alright, say it with me. Vehicles are designed from the tires up!!! If you get nothing else out of what I write about in this blog, you will gain an appreciation of the design work that goes into an individual model of a vehicle.

Shims are an important component of the brake system, not only to create a boundry layer to prevent vibration from being transferred to the caliper and knuckle, but also allow heat to be shunted off instead of being transferred to the piston. Because of the important role that shims play in todays vehicles they should always be replaced along with your brake pads.

6. You work on all brakes the same.

Just because it looks the same doesn't mean it is the same. You may miss something as simple as a torque specification for a caliper bracket to being as complex as disarming the ABS before pulling the brakes apart. You should always have access to current repair information if you are going to do it yourself, if not then make sure your repair shop has the most current information. That way you are not coming back to get something fixed that should have been done correctly the first time.

7. Dial indicators and calipers do not exist.

This is akin to saying the internet does not exist. There are shops out there that will make this claim or claim they are unnecessary or too costly. It really doesn't matter what the excuse is for not having the tools, if the shop doesn't have the tools to measure the rotor, then turn your car around and get it to a shop (Like this one in South Dakota) that has the proper tools to test your vehicle and repair it.

Fido is driving???

2010-04-05T05:44:00.000-07:00

Dog doesn't have a license

MIDDLETON, Wis. – Wisconsin police said a dog caused a fender-bender in a parking lot when it knocked a parked car's gear shift into neutral. Middleton police said the car's owner had stopped for lunch Thursday and left his dog in the car.

Officer Jeff Winer said the dog somehow bumped the car into neutral. He said the car rolled out of its parking spot and into a pickup truck across the lot. Police said the damage to each vehicle could run in the thousands of dollars.

Winer said it's the first time in his 27-year career he's seen a dog at fault in a collision. He told WISC-TV when he first heard what happened he thought it was an April Fools' joke.

Ed. Note: No, the joke is that the dog had better car insurance than its owner.

Standard Transmissions??? What are those????

2010-04-05T05:40:00.000-07:00

Robbers foiled by standard transmission

Associated Press
04/05/2010

FOUNTAIN HILL, Pa. – Police in eastern Pennsylvania said two men tried to rob and carjack a pizza delivery driver but were defeated by the vehicle's standard transmission. Fountain Hill police said the Domino's Pizza driver had stopped at a red light early Friday when a man ran up to the vehicle from the rear and grabbed her by the throat and shirt. He demanded money while a second man tried to open the passenger door.

Police said the driver reported that the men fled after making a reference to the manual transmission. Investigators did not say whether they escaped with any money from the driver.

Ed. Note: Bet there is one person that is going to be opposing any reintroduction of driver's education back into the high school there.

A Drive Thru Hair Salon?

2010-04-02T13:48:00.000-07:00

Woman crashes into salon, sticks around to get hair done.

Associated Press
04/02/2010

PLAINFIELD TOWNSHIP, Mich. – An 82-year-old woman who accidentally crashed her car through the front window of a southwest Michigan salon stuck around afterward for an appointment to get her hair done.

Authorities said Marion Zock was parking her Ford Fusion on Thursday outside Classic Hair Design in Kent County's Plainfield Township, near Grand Rapids, when she stepped on the accelerator instead of the brake.

Two people were injured, including an employee who returned to work after treatment and a girl with a bruised arm.

Zock told WOOD-TV her foot slipped from the brake. She's a regular customer and says she was "so embarrassed."

Stylist Kristi Dochod told WWMT-TV the crash sounded like an explosion. The salon stayed open as the car was removed, and is open during repairs.

Ed. Note: I don't know which one is more impressive, the fact she still went to get her hair done after crashing her car into the salon, or the salon for doing her hair properly after she ran into the place.

I thought Guiness frowned on these types of records?

2010-04-02T13:41:00.000-07:00

Blind singer sets blind speed record in a Ferrari

Reuters
04/02/2010

URFA, Turkey (Reuters) – Turkish pop-singer Metin Senturk became the world's fastest unaccompanied blind driver on Friday and said he felt he had danced with death.

Senturk wept as he emerged from a Ferrari F430 at Urfa airport in eastern Turkey to learn from Guinness World Records officials his average speed of 292.89 kph broke the previous record of 284 kph, held by a British bank manager.

"I don't think there are any words to describe this feeling. I am really happy. It was really hard, like a dance with death," said Senturk, who has been blind since the age of three.
Following Senturk in a separate vehicle was former rally driver Volkan Isik, who guided the blind man by radio.

(Reporting by Emin Caliskan; Writing by Alexandra Hudson)

Ed. note: Notice how the previous record was held by a bank manager? Coincidence? I think not!!!!

Watch out.....Peter Cottontail is Five-0!!!!!

2010-04-02T11:24:00.000-07:00

Cops dress up as giant bunny and make city councilman hopping mad!!!

04/02/2010
Associated Press

GLENDALE, Calif. – Glendale police who used a bunny costume to decoy bad drivers at crosswalks have abandoned the outfit after it made a city councilman hopping mad.

An officer wore the Easter outfit on Wednesday in crosswalks. Drivers who didn't yield to the furry pedestrian were ticketed.

But City Councilman John Drayman harshly criticized the head-turning costume, calling it "breathtakingly dangerous" and a poor use of city resources.

Glendale police continued the crosswalk sting on Thursday but the officer wore shorts and a T-shirt. A city spokesman says the city is re-evaluating the use of costumes for enforcement campaigns.

Ed note: It is southern California, so you have to imagine that they've all seen stranger sights when someone is crossing the street.

Really? It takes this to get Americans active?

2010-04-02T11:07:00.000-07:00

Stolen snack food truck found.

ATLANTIC CITY, N.J. – Atlantic City police said a Frito-Lay delivery truck was stolen, abandoned and recovered, but not before some people helped themselves to "free" snacks. Police Sgt. Monica McMenamin said the truck was stolen at about 10:45 a.m. Thursday when the driver went inside a store on Baltic Avenue, four blocks west of the Boardwalk casinos, to make a delivery.

When officers found the truck abandoned a short time later on nearby Maryland Avenue, people were running off carrying bags of chips.

Police arrested several looters, but have not yet located the person who stole the truck.

Ed. Note: This is what happens when Tony Soprano isn't running around cracking skulls, got more things "falling" out of trucks.

Ricky Bobby has come to life!!!!!!!

2010-04-02T07:39:00.000-07:00

3 Year Old Takes Car for a Joyride

04/01/10 - AP

OSHKOSH, Wis. – A toddler in Oshkosh is OK after taking his mother's car out for short spin down the block. Police said the mother of the 3-year-old boy told officers her son was asleep in the 1985 Buick sedan when she left it running and ran into the house for a moment Wednesday morning.

When she returned, the car was gone. Police say the boy knelt on the seat, pulled down on the gear shift lever and started to roll down the block.

The car had traveled nearly two blocks before an officer was able to stop the vehicle.

Ed. Note - I am so placing bets on this kid naming his kids Walker and Texas Ranger when he becomes a daddy.

Well we already talked about potholes, so we might as well talk about suspension

2010-04-02T06:21:00.001-07:00

We've all been there, a strange noise, a knock that you can't quite pin down so you take the car to the shop, spend three or four hundred dollars on engine work, you get the car back and that knock is still there. Obviously since the first shop didn't figure it out you take the car to a different shop and they fix the knocking not by replacing engine parts, but adding a couple of 20 dollar bushings to the sway bar instead. Needless to say you feel taken advantage of by the first shop, and you can't be blamed for feeling that way. But you have also learned an expensive lesson, suspension is important to your vehicle.

As you have seen me write before, vehicles, be it a Dodge Neon to a Cadillac Crossfire to a Lamborghini Murcielago, are engineered from the tires up. Each one has its own performance and manufacturing specifications and costs that are taken into consideration, but each one is a marvel in its own way. So lets get on our backs, crawl under the car and take a look at the suspension system.

Suspension systems consist of the following main components in some combination, shock absorbers, struts, springs, and torsion bars. The primary job of a suspension system is to help the wheels maintain maximum contact with the road to help the driver maintain control. So why do most cars have struts in front and shock absorbers in the rear? A strut allows for greater freedom for steering because of how it is connected to the vehicle by use of a ball-joint and a control arm. A shock absorber (or coil-over-shox) does not provide the same freedom in steering, but does provide greater directional stability. Keep in mind that struts and shock absorbers are not interchangable as terms or as components.

If you crawl under the rear bumper of the car and look up you'll see what is called a torsion bar (aka sway bar), the purpose of the bar is to help minimize “body roll”. Body roll is basic phsyics, as you drive your car, its weight gains momentum in a certain direction, the car wants to continue going in that direction when you make a turn, that is why it feels you are getting thrown in the opposite direction you are turning. What the sway bar does is help equalize traction, helping change momentum of the vehicle to the direction of the turn and minimizing that feeling.

But how do you pay attention to suspension?

Tires are like an X-ray for your car. They can help diagnose problems with suspension and steering. Uneven surface wear across the face of the tire can indicate weak ride control components. One sign is tire cupping as a result of improper tire balancing or improper damping force in the shock absorber. Also, tires may have inside or outside excessive edge wear from improper wheel alignment. This should prompt you to suspect things like worn tie rod ends, collapsed control arm bushings or maybe a bent strut or spindle. A bounce test can be used to visually demonstrate the lack of resistance in badly worn dampers. Push down on one corner of the vehicle and rock the suspension several times, then release it. Repeat the test at each corner of the vehicle. Good dampers should stop the motion within a bounce or two.

After seven to 10 years of service, many of these older systems start to develop leaks that allow air to escape from the system. The same thing can happen to plastic air lines. Wiring connectors, solenoids, compressors and height sensors are also vulnerable to corrosion and vibration, which, over time, may lead to failures that disrupt the normal operation of the air ride system. This isn't due to poor engineering, its just due to the natural stresses the system experiences even if you aren't driving the car hard.

If you need to have the suspension repaired and it is going to involve the replacement of any part that has bearing plates, unless the plates are in perfect shape, have them replaced. As the name implies, these plates bear the weight of the vehicle on the suspension system, so if they fail, you're going to have a low-rider, but not the way you want to make your car one.

So now that we have idea what the pieces of the suspension system are, it should be apparent that the main purpose is not for ride enjoyment, it is for ride safety. Now you're not among the 70 percent of people that think the primary role of suspension is for ride enjoyment.

Springtime in South Dakota

2010-04-01T12:04:00.000-07:00

Yes, spring in South Dakota, that glorious time of year when you can expect temperatures in the 60s and 70s and diving down to below freezing at night. Throw in the melting snow, a strategically placed rain or two, and it is a magical crop of potholes!!!!

But with all the highway projects that seem to go on, its unlikely the state can get to all of them to get them taken care of. With that in mind, lets cover some of the things you should be trying to do when it comes to driving and having bunches of potholes.

Know what they will do to your car. Potholes are going to cause damage. Sometimes it smaller damager, stuff you may not be able to see, a ding to the rim, a chunk of tread ripped off the tire, maybe a cracked CV boot. Then there are times you hit one that chips a tooth, throws you forward giving you a world class case of whiplash in the process, and you end up with a blown out tire, or a broken shock or strut. And then there are ones that you can call the OMGs, the ones that cause so much damage that you end up filing a claim against your insurance to pay for the damage if you are carrying comprehensive coverage.

Slow down. This is physics, the faster your car is going when it hits a pothole, the more damage it is going to cause. So leave some extra space between you and the car in front of you and make sure other cars aren't swerving towards you to avoid a pothole as you are swerving towards them to avoid your own.

Grab onto that steering wheel!! Yep, if you have to take a pothole head on, hold on to that wheel like your hands were vice grips. This will help you maintain control instead of the vehicle bounding off into the oncoming traffic lane.

Check your tire pressure. If your tires are properly inflated, they are going to give you better traction, but will also provide a better cushion as you go over the pothole.

Hit your brakes before you hit the pothole, not as you hit it. You should be trying to glide your vehicle through the pothole instead of powering through it. The reason you don't want to hit the brakes when you are over the pothole is because extra force is applied to your front tires as you break due to the forward momentum of your vehicle. And that extra force may be the difference between a cracked CV boot and a broken strut and tie arm.

If your suspension is damaged, you should never put off the work due to the safety that your suspension provides, and if your hitting potholes with damaged suspension, well we do have lots and lots (bad English intended) of cars for you to choose from.

Keeping your car out of the old cars home.

2010-04-01T06:32:00.000-07:00

So you have a new car and you want it to last until Sasha Obama becomes President in 2037? How do you pull it off? Here are 10 simple rules to make sure your car has a nice long life and then some.

Rule Number 1: Don't Drive!!!!

Want your car to last? Don't use it. That sounds obvious, but it's worth keeping in mind.

Chances are there are plenty of times when you currently use your car that you could be walking, biking, using public transportation or carpooling — choices that are better for the environment, your wallet, your health, and the car you won't be driving. It's simple: The less you drive, the longer your car will last.

Kind of ironic that a car dealership would say that, but you should be spending money on the things you want to instead of having to try to deal with an extra expense.

A different way to say Rule #1: Stop the short trips!!!

Short trips of less than 10 minutes can be particularly hard on a car, resulting in excessive wear and tear. During a short trip, your car's engine never has a chance to reach its full operating temperature.

So what? Here's why it matters: One of the byproducts of engine combustion is water. When an engine reaches its operating temperature that water turns to vapor and is expunged, either out the tailpipe or the crankcase ventilation system. On a short trip, however, that water stays inside your car's engine and exhaust. Unfortunately, water is one of only three ingredients necessary to make rust (you've already got the other two, oxygen and metal), and rust kills.

A further complication of condensation and water is that it dilutes your oil, which then does a poorer job of lubricating the engine. If you can't avoid taking lots of short trips, we recommend you change your oil frequently, such as every 2,000-3,000 miles.

Rule #2: Drive your car gently!!!

When you drive, do your car a favor and drive gently.

Think of your car like your own body. What's more likely to land you in a full-body cast: A gentle walk around the park, or a season of bull-riding? We rest our case.

What does "drive gently" mean? It means accelerating slowly, not snapping your head back. It means anticipating your braking so you can brake gently and avoid panic stops. It means not revving your engine in the driveway when it's cold, before the oil is warm and freely circulating.

If it's below freezing outside, allow your car a minute or so to warm up before driving it hard. Then drive slowly for another minute or two, until the engine oil has warmed up and started to fully lubricate all the components.

Finally, if your car is new, follow the break-in recommendations in your owner's manual. Regardless of the manufacturer's recommendation, we advise changing your car's oil after your inaugural 1,000 miles.

Rule #3: Watch for engine warning signs.

It's OK to drive your car short distances with certain warning lights illuminated or gauges out of their normal range, but there are three that you dismiss at your car's peril: the engine oil light, the engine temperature gauge and the brake light. A few minutes of an excessively hot engine or low oil pressure and the groceries you're hauling in the back could suddenly be worth more than your car. A couple of minutes with the brake light on and you might end up playing bumper cars with the Cadillac Escalade ahead of you. The one being driven by Tony Soprano. In a bad mood.

Get in the habit of glancing at your engine's temperature gauge and warning lights. If the idiot lights come on, pull over as soon as it's safe to do so and shut off the engine. You might just save yourself an expensive engine rebuild — much to the disappointment of your mechanic.
Most of us know what it feels like to be hauling a few extra doughnuts around the midriff, so to speak. It places extra demands on our engine, and it creates suspension, braking and even exhaust problems. If you catch our drift.

Rule #4: Read the owner's manual/don't skimp on the maintenance.
Skipping regularly scheduled maintenance intervals is one of the quickest ways to assure your car finds its way to an early grave. Regular oil changes and oil, fuel and air filter changes all help make sure your car has what it needs to run without problems: clean air and clean fuel, plus fresh, uncontaminated oil to prevent wear and tear.

An added bonus to regular service? It gives good mechanics an opportunity to spot problems before they balloon into something more serious.

If you're wondering how often to do these things, there's a book that explains it all to you. It's called the owner's manual. You'll find it in your glove box, shrink-wrapped in plastic, because — if you're like most of us — you've probably never looked at it. In the back you'll find a list of service intervals, and the services that are recommended during each of them. If intervals in the book stop at 120,000 miles, that doesn't mean you're done with maintenance. Go back to the beginning and start over (so, for instance, do all the services called for in the 7,500-mile service at 127,500). Nice try, though.

By the way, if you're fretting over the ongoing cost of routine service, remember "It's the stingy man who makes the most boat payments!"

Rule #5: Put your car on a diet!!!

It's no different with your car. Extra weight adds stress to critical systems and causes premature wear. Check your car right now. What's in there that can come out? Toss out the four bowling balls, the barbells and the lead-lined box of plutonium fuel rods. You might even consider removing your mother-in-law — as long as she doesn't have to come inside the house, that is.

You should also remove anything that causes additional drag. Creating aerodynamic drag is similar to adding weight in that it increases the demand on your engine, so think about removing the big, flat bug shield from the 70s that sticks up above your hood. Remove any roof racks you're not actively using, and take the cargo carrier off the top of the minivan. We know it gives you some hope of looking cool, like you do something besides haul kids around, but it's killing your gas mileage and making your engine work harder.

Rule #6: We Need a Transfusion, stat!!!

Your car's fluids will often be changed during regular service intervals, but it's important enough that we wanted to mention it separately. As you drive your car, and even if it just sits in the driveway, your car's fluids degrade.

That's a problem because each of the fluids in your car is vital to the long-term health of the engine, transmission, steering or brakes. Simply keeping the fluids topped off isn't enough because over time they lose important properties — like their ability to remove heat and lubricate, as well as the ability to prevent rust and freezing.

What fluids are we talking about? Transmission, differential, brake and power-steering fluid; oil; and antifreeze. Windshield washer fluid? Not so important.

Regular transmission and differential fluid changes are often overlooked, but this service is very important. If you really want to keep your car forever, our suggestion is to get these fluids changed every 60,000 miles whether your owner's manual recommends it or not. Fresh, clean transmission fluid assures that your car's drivetrain stays cool and uncontaminated. Some cars, by the way, have two separate differentials. Be sure to ask your mechanic if yours is one, and make sure that both sets of differential oil get changed. It's easy to overlook this particular service, but you do so at your own peril: A cooked differential can cost thousands of dollars to repair. Routine maintenance service is much less expensive.

Rule #7: Stop little problems from becoming big problems!!

This is like saying "Don't let a cold turn into pneumonia." If you have a small problem with your car, get it checked out sooner rather than later.

For example, a torn CV boot is a common problem and a simple repair. Delay getting it fixed, though, and you'll eventually end up by the side of the road, unable to drive and forced to fork over some additional money for a tow and a whole new axle.

There are many other problems that start small but balloon into something much larger if they're not addressed right away. Don't believe in this theory? Talk to the Secretary of the Treasury Department.

Above all, make sure your car is safe to drive. If you have any doubts about such things as brakes, brake lines, ball joints, tie rods, airbags, seat belts or even the structural integrity of your car, get it checked out. Remember: Even though you want your car to last a long time, you still want to outlive your car.

Rule #8: Carwashes in the winter are a good thing!!!

If you live in a part of the country that gets more than a few inches of snow during the winter, you're probably very familiar with the ravages of road salt.

By kick-starting rust, salt wreaks havoc on the body and other components. Our advice is simple: During the winter, when there's salt on the roads, wash your car's undercarriage as often as possible. You'll remove much of the salt that's eating away your car, and that's a good thing.

Rule #9: Skip the heated garage!!! Yes, we said skip it.

Garages and carports are great things. Do you want to spend 10 minutes every morning during the winter freezing your bolts off, scraping ice and snow off your car? Of course not!

A garage allows you to avoid that supreme morning hassle, and it also helps slow the steady deterioration of your car's interior and exterior caused by bright sun and storms.

However, there's a big exception to this rule: heated garages. Our advice is to skip the heated garage, which can accelerate your car's march towards its grave. Here's why: Heat accelerates oxidation, also known as rust. You drive in the garage with snow and ice on your car, it melts, and the water and salt mix in that nice, warm petri dish and, come morning, there's less of your car there.

Rule #10: Have pride in you car!!!

Owning a car should be a source of pride. You're showing that you're sensible, not swayed by the latest models and capable of keeping your car well maintained. Who knows? That sort of no-frills common sense can be very appealing to members of the opposite sex. It might even land you a date! After all, who wants somebody who's always got his eye on a new model?

Even if it doesn't score you the babe or hunk of your dreams, owning an older car can offer you something else: a truly liberating experience. So who cares what your neighbors think? You no longer care about scratches, dents or bird droppings. And, best of all? It's paid for!!

OEM? What in the heck is an OEM?

2010-03-31T07:23:00.003-07:00

We understand that talking about automotive parts can seem like a drag instead of talking about the accessories. Huh? What? Aren't they the same thing? In our business they are two different things, parts are what makes a car a car, accessories are those extra things that make your car something special. I know we do a lot of pushing for Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) parts, and aftermarket parts can be just as good as OEM. There are advantages of getting OEM parts, they save time during the repair process and OEM parts are more likely to be re-engineered if there is a change in specification due to general engineering evolution or if there was something more pressing such as recall that required an updated part. It allows your car to be returned to you in a better condition than what it was prior to the accident.

Making sure your car is well hydrated.

2010-03-30T12:02:00.000-07:00

Now time for something that most car owners don't like to do, but the reality is that it doesn't take that long and can tip you off about possible problems with your vehicle owners to a problem before it becomes a major source of aggravation. So lets start by checking the oil.

1.Make sure the car is parked on a level surface.
2.Open the Hood.
3.The oil dipstick will normally be located in a central location on the engine block and the handle will be colord (Normally yellow).
4.Pull the dipstick out and clean it with a rag or paper towel.
5.Put the dipstick back in and pull it out.
6.Look at the pointy end of the dipstick. If the oil on the dipstick is below the line marked "full," add a small amount of oil. Many dipsticks simply have 2 lines with a cross hatch design in between. The oil level should be halfway between these 2 lines.
7.Add the oil by unscrewing the oil filler cap, which is about 3 inches in diameter and located on the very top of the engine. It will usually be marked with the words "Engine Oil".
8.Check the oil level with the dipstick after adding oil. Add more if necessary. It's easier to add more oil several times, than to take oil out.
9.Put the oil filler cap back on and secure it tightly

As you were looking at the oil on the dipstick, take note of anything that may seem “off”. If you see metal flakes in the oil or notice a discoloration like green, pink, red, or yellow, then make sure to get your car into the repair shop because this could be a precursor to catastrophic engine failure. So you will want to schedule a service appointment, or if someone else is going to do the work you can make sure the right parts get ordered for your vehicle.

So that looks fine, but now you need to check your transmission fluid to help keep your car in tip top shape.

1.Locate the dipstick for your transmission. It is usually near the back of the engine, and the stick handle is either a T-handle or a ring handle.
2.Start the car engine.
3.Grasp the dipstick handle and pull straight up until the end of the stick clears the housing tube. Wipe the stick off with a rag, and push it all the back down into the tube.
4.Pull the stick all the way out again and hold it so you can see the end of the stick and the film of fluid that clings to it.
5.Look for the level indicators stamped or drilled into the dipstick. You should see two sets of indicators. One set is for checking the fluid when the engine is cold, and the other set is for checking the fluid when the engine is hot. Each set of indicators is marked with a "full" line and an "add" line.
6.Determine whether your transmission fluid is at the proper level by finding the spot on the dipstick where the film of fluid ends. If the film ends near the "full" mark or somewhere near the halfway point between "full" and "add," your transmission has an adequate fluid level.
7.Return the dipstick to the holding tube and push it all the way back down into the tube. Fully seat the dipstick in the holding tube.
Just like with oil, pay attention to anything that doesn't look right, metal flakes in the fluid, color being far darker than what it expected, if there is something that you don't feel right about or you know isn't right, make it a point to get your car checked by a mechanic. For vehicles with high mileage it may be just replacing the filter in the transmission, or it may involve the cost and time of a full rebuild or replacement of the transmission.

Now we've got those two levels checked, lets see how we are doing on brake fluid.

1.Locate the brake master cylinder. It will almost always be close to the back of the engine compartment on the driver's side, it will be a big metal circle with a small reservoir sitting just in front of it. The cap may be labeled.
2.Clean the top of the cap with a rag to prevent dirt from entering the reservoir when you open it.
3.Open the reservoir cap. It may screw off or just pull off.
4.In some vehicles the reservoir cap may have a rubber diaphragm that has been pulled out. If that is the case, then use something like a plastic spoon to collapse the diagram back. You shouldn't allow brake fluid to touch exposed skin or paint because it is corrosive.
5.Check the fluid level. You will see full- and low-level indicators on the side of the reservoir or inside the opening.
6.Add brake fluid up to the full line if needed. Use a funnel to avoid spills.
7.Put the cap back on and close the hood.

These three checks don't take a lot of time and can let you know of problems that may be starting to develop so you can get them fixed before they become problems that incapacitate you at the worst possible time.

I don't want to spend that much!!!!

2010-03-30T09:20:00.002-07:00

A lot of people that go into dealerships and tire stores every day and get a case of sticker shock. Then start to lament about the good old days when tires were only $39.95 apiece.

The first culprit the cost of oil, not just the production costs that have increased over 250% in ten years. Consider that out of a 42 gallon barrel of oil, approximately 37.5 gallons are used for fueling and heating purposes, out of the remaining 4.5 gallons there is competition for that oil to make products that use oil, including computers, perfume and colognes, plastics, petroleum jelly, ammonia, and even bubble gum just to name a few things. So with an increase in cost and an increase in the number of industries that need to use the material, its only natural that production costs increase.

The next thing that increases the cost is designing for individual models, looking back to the early 80s, there may have been as many as 48 different types of tires that covered all makes and models of vehicles from a manufacturer. Today, it isn't even shocking to see a single manufacturer with over 1500 different models that cover a wide array of makes, models, weather, and terrain condtions. Why all this specialization? When a car maker engineers a new model year, those cars are designed from the tires up, the maker gives the tire specifications to the tire manufacturer and the tire manufacturer creates the tire. If there is less of a product and production costs are the same, to recoup the investment at a minimum, the price needs to increase..

Finally, those new tires you get on your new car, they are sold to the car maker at a discount. Because most people want to stick with the same brand of tire that came with their vehicle, so the tire manufacturer gets rights to what is called the OEM (Original Engineered Manufacturer) market for that model to help them recoup the cost.

Are these bad things? Not necessarily, the tires that came on your new car were designed with your make and model in mind, so this helps improve fuel efficiency by providing better traction and handling, lessens wear on your vehicle's suspension keeping the car running and out of the shop. The average life of tires has almost doubled from 24,000 miles in the 1980s to 45,000 miles today. So instead of changing tires every 18 months to 2 years, they are not being changed for 4 to 5 years, there may be sticker shock, but in the long term, you're actually going to be saving time and money using tires that were designed with a specific vehicle in mind.

Myths about those little round things under your car.

2010-03-30T09:20:00.000-07:00

Tire myths abound out in the automotive universe, ranging from price to durability to handling. But here are some of the more egregious myths, and when someone tries to sell you it, you can have an answer at the ready.

1.Tires should be inflated to the pressures indicated on the sidewall. No, inflate the tires to the pressures listed on the car information panel on the door or in the glove box or listed in the vehicle's owners manual. Cars are designed from the tires up.

2.A tread pattern is needed to provide great traction on dry roads. Not really, traction is a product of how much of the tire is in contact with the road, so ideally the best traction is with racing slicks (tires without tread) given a choice between two tires of the same size.

3.If not for cost, race tires would be ideal for high performance vehicles. No, they would be worse for high performance vehicles because tires used for Nascar are designed with individual tracks, likely weather conditions, and cars in mind. The tires used at the Daytona 500 for Jimmy Johnson's car are different than the tires used at Martinsville for the Goody's 500 for his car, those same tires that are used at Daytona in February are different from the tires that used at Daytona for the Coke Zero 400 in July. So you would end up with a ride that is rougher and doesn't handle as well using those tires.

4.Performance tires wear out because of the sticky compounds. The treadlife for performance tires is nearly identical to tires used on the family van. The real culprit is the aggressive driving: jackrabbit starts, quick stops, and hard cornering that most high performance vehicle owners perform, that will shorten the life of any tire.

5.Wide tires provide better traction. The other great traction myth, wider is better. No it isn't better, because as a tire gets wider, the weight becomes more dispersed, and the less weight bearing down on a section, friction is less so traction is decreased. In the case of snow tires, the tires are not going to dig through the snow and grab the road.

6.Tires are made of a single rubber compound. If the tires on a mountain bike on sale at Wal-Mart aren't made from a single compound, what do you think the odds are that tires are made out of a single compound?

7.A sidewall undulation indicates weakness. An undulation, as opposed to a bulge, occurs when materials overlap in the carcass of the tire. It may not look pleasing but those undulations are the strongest part of the tire. Most manufacturers are starting to use different construction techniques to remove those undulations and retain that same strength.

8.The best way to test a tire on the floor is to dig a fingernail into the tread and kick them. Well that is no and no, unless the goals are to get fingernails dirty and test shoe construction.

Huh....what?? I wasn't Driving Distracted

2010-03-26T10:58:00.001-07:00

Distracted Driving, sounds pretty straight forward, your driving, but you're doing something else that is taking your attention away from keeping your car on the road. The US Department of Transportation (http://www.distraction.gov/stats-and-facts/) breaks distracted driving down to three main types of distractions.

Visual – Taking your eyes off the road.
Manual – Taking your hands off the steering wheel.
Cognitive – Taking your mind off what you are doing.

We've all been distracted before; eating that cheeseburger, combing hair, fighting with your significant other while driving, talking on the phone, and texting someone or receiving a text.

Some of the distracted driving studies are scary, using a cell phone just for talking gives people the response times of a person with a BAC of .08, and with texting it gets even worse, four times worse to be exact. During a minute of driving, if you are not texting, you're distracted for 6 seconds, if you are texting you are going to be distracted for 24 seconds. To put that in perspective, a distracted person that is driving 30 mph loses about 260 feet that they travelled, texting increases that to over a thousand feet, which dramatically increases the chances you will be in an accident.

Another thing to consider is that states are catching on to the whole texting while driving and are enacting laws against it the fines can range from a slap on the wrist of $20 to being treated as if you are guilty of a DUI. So even if it is a $20 fine, do you really want to be spending your money that way?

So how do you minimize the distractions? A number of different ways.
Turn off the cell phone.
If you have GPS enter your addresses in before you start driving.
For your radio, just set the station before you take off.
Maintain a proper following distance while driving, so if you do become distracted you do have time to react.
Driving is not the time to have a heated argument or a cathartic release of emotions, it takes you away from concentrating on the road.
Just about every place you can buy prepared food has tables, use them.
The car isn't the place to groom yourself while driving (combing your hair, applying makeup, and yes plucking your eyebrows). You can always freshen up after you've parked the car and no one will be any the wiser.

So why rant on texting? Well that has some of the most comprehensive studies currently. The reality is that you should have your eyes and head in traffic and your hands on the wheel at all times. Not only for your own safety, but to create those positive influences for your children when they start driving.

The strongest habits are the ones that we learn when we are young, so if you give your children a strong foundation of good habits while driving they will carry that forward when they start driving even if they tell you otherwise (but your heart attacks won't stop when they pull out of the driveway). When you talk to them about the responsibility of owning and driving a vehicle, they will have all those years of watching you be a safe driver and the pieces will come together making them a safer driver and eventually allowing you relax when they go out in the car.

Accidents will happen

2010-03-26T10:53:00.001-07:00

You are driving down the street and someone thinks that a red-light is just a general guide to stop and next thing you know you are in an accident. What do you do?
1.Move your vehicle to a safe place. Keep in mind, that state or local statutes may prevent you from doing this. If you cannot move the vehicle, turn on your hazard lights, to keep other vehicles from piling into the same accident.
2.If necessary, seek medical help for yourself, your passengers, or if necessary the occupants of the other vehicle.
3.Notify the police, give them the location of the accident, any claimed injuries.
4.Take note of all passengers and witnesses.
5.Get the names and badge numbers of any police officers that arrive at the scene.
6.Ask for a copy of the police report. It may not be immediately available, but the responding officer(s) should be able to give you the information to obtain a copy of the police report once it has been filed.
7.Avoid any extensive discussion of the accident at the scene about responsibility. This is to protect you. If the other driver offers you a money settlement and you accept, you may compromise your ability to collect if additional damage or injuries are discovered at a later date.
8.Write a complete description of the accident as soon as possible. Include weather conditions, approximate speeds, and as much precise information as you can provide. If possible, take photographs, not only of the accident itself but the surrounding area.
9.Have the vehicle towed or driven to the collision repair facility of your choice, like this one in Sioux Falls, SD that can take care of the entire vehicle if it was damaged in an accident.

Okay, now you've got the car to the repair shop, and insurance is going to repair the car instead of writing the car off. Here are some questions to help you with getting your car repaired in an efficient manner.

Disclaimer: The following information is designed to aide you in the repair of your damaged vehicle. The material is intended to be general in nature.
Before obtaining repairs, you should contact your attorney to ensure that the information complies with your state laws and regulations.

Q: Must I get three estimates?
A: Unless your policy states otherwise, you only need to get one estimate. However, different eyes looking at the same thing may find different issues. Case in point, a while back my parked car was struck by another vehicle. I went to three repair shops, the first one said only the front quarter panel had to be replaced, but the other two found damage to the suspension that had to be repaired.

Q: I was told I must take my car to a certain repair shop, is this really true?
A: See the reason for the disclaimer at the top? This is a wide grey area, some states have laws that bar insurers from dictating where repair work is performed, others allow the insurer to dictate when and how the repairs are done.

Q: What is the best procedure for me to get quality repairs and get my vehicle back on the road quickly?
A: Take the vehicle to reputable repair shop, leave it with the manager. Instruct the manager to contact the insurance company to advise them of the damage (in the case of larger shops, they may have software they use to write the estimate and submit it to the insurance company which helps speed up and standardize the process). Also, call the insurance company and let them know where the vehicle is at.

Q: Who is responsible for my repair shop bill, me or the insurance company?
A: This ends up causing more aggravation than anything else. You are responsible for the repair shop bill. In most cases the insurance company will pay the repair shop directly, but in those rare circumstances where insurance doesn't pay the shop, you will need to pay the shop and then you will be reimbursed.

Q: Who is responsible for the safety, workmanship, and guarantee of the repairs for my vehicle?
A: This is the responsibility of the repair shop.

Q: Can the insurance company and repair shop make an adjustment and make additional repairs without the owner's consent?
A: Generally no (another reason I started with that disclaimer). You should be present for the estimate so you know what repairs are being made.

Q: Do I have to accept that aftermarket parts are going to be used in the repair?
A: Remember, you are the injured party, not the insurance company, so always insist on having your vehicle restored to a pre-accident condition so if OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) parts are available have them used to repair the vehicle.

Q: Why are you pushing for OEM parts?
A: The cynical andswer would be that is how we make our money. And we do, this is a site run by a parts department at an auto dealership. But even if we don't get a penny we would make the same push for two reasons: 1) OEM parts are designed for that vehicle, instead of a range of vehicles and 2) the OEM part is manufactured with up to date specifications that may have occurred during the normal engineering process or if there was a recall you were not able to bring your vehicle into the dealership to get corrected, that updated part is going to be installed.

Choosing a car seat?

2010-03-26T10:52:00.001-07:00

There are people that say looking for a car seat is like choosing a dentist or is an exercise in aggravation. Should people that say those things be the ones to give advice on choosing a car seat? That is like going to Bernie Madoff or an Enron executive to learn about ethical business practices.

Some basic rules about car seats:
The vehicle is going to play a role in the car seat purchase. If you own a smaller car like a Mazda 3, give up the dream of buying the Eddie Bauer car seat unless a cranky child and sore back is in the future.
Expensive does not equal better. Yes, Brad and Angelina supposedly have the most expensive seats for their kids, but that doesn't make those seats right for your vehicle. This is not a license to be cheap, which leads to:
Don't buy a car seat at a garage/rummage sale, or eBay for that matter. You don't know how old the seat is, if any parts or labels are missing, if the seat was part of a recall or was involved in an accident.
Not your first child? Be willing to purchase a new car seat. The maximum lifetime for a seat is between 6 and 10 years due to parts fatigue and evolving safety standards. In other words, the seat purchased in 2002 is obsolete by now.
Purchase the infant seat before the child is born, that way time is spent in the hospital forming a bond with the little one instead of running around trying to find a car seat and get it installed.
If you can't easily operate the seat, simple rule. DON'T BUY IT!!!! Car seats that are not operated properly not only lead to an increased danger to the child, but also to other passengers and drivers of the vehicle.
Understand the return policy where your car seat is purchased. If your child isn't comfortable in the car seat, don't be afraid to return it to get one your child is comfortable in.
If you are involved in an accident, even if it is a “minor” accident, get a new car seat. Most insurance policies will pay for a replacement, but even if the policy doesn't, you should replace it. Because damage isn't seen, doesn't mean that it doesn't exist.
Do your homework, one of the best sites is the National Highway Transportation Safety Administration (NHTSA) safety site (http://www.nhtsa.gov/portal/site/nhtsa/menuitem.9f8c7d6359e0e9bbbf30811060008a0c/), they have reviews on car seats that cover how easy a certain car seat is to use, how safe it is, and they keep an up-to-date recall list.

At the end of the day, it all comes down to one thing, keeping the child safe. Using all the tools and a little bit of common sense, picking the right car seat and keeping your child comfortable and safe, and you sane will be a lot easier and not as aggravating as you think.

Tire care and why its Important

2010-03-26T10:23:00.002-07:00

There are a number of checklists for tires, but they really don't explain why to check items, its more like a parent saying “Do it!”. We're going to do that, if you have questions, concerns or comments you can always contact us.

Maintaining your tire pressure and checking tire pressure at least once per month:

A lot of people laughed at the President when he said this to help improve fuel economy of vehicles. Here's a secret, its true, and the savings are not small. If you can lower the amount of money you spend on fuel by up to 12%, wouldn't it make sense to take the minute or so to take the cap off the valve stem and put a tire pressure guage on the tire? Keeping your tires properly inflated helps minimize the risk of failures such as tread separation and side-wall breaks. The last thing anyone needs is a tire to fail when traveling down the road at 75 miles per hour.
Why a month? Normally a tire will lose 1 psi of pressure every month due to natural leaking of air or nitrogen through tire membranes. Also for every loss of 8 degrees of ambient temperature you will lose 1 psi of pressure. As seasons change from summer to fall and fall to winter, it is important to be vigilant about checking tire pressure. Before any long trip (over 250 miles) check tire pressure before even hitting the road to help save money.

Inspect tires regularly for wear and damage:

This can be done while checking tire pressure. Most issues are caused by underinflation and can be rectified by properly inflating the tires. If the tire is damaged, consider replacing the tires . Here is what you will want to look for:

Uneven tread wear. This could be something as simple as being under or overinflated to having a problem with steering, suspension, or alignment.
Cracks or bulges in the sidewalls or tread tread. This normally indicates a failure of the side wall constructions and needs to be replaced immediately.
"Chunks" of tread missing from the tire. This is tread separation and the tire needs to be replaced immediately.
If a puncture is found, do not use an external plug, they don't hold consistently and further compromise the integrity of the thread. When the puncture is repaired from the inside, the tire, rim, and valve stem can be inspected and repaired or replaced. If you use a sealant to repair the tire, it is only meant to be a temporary way for you to move your vehicle to safety.
Rotation and balancing:
This will help with normal tire wear. By rotating the tires according to vehicle manufacturer's guidelines it will even the wear. A good rule of thumb is to rotate tires every 6,000 miles if there is no vehicle manufacturer guideline. Maintaining tires in balance not only saves on tire wear, improves the ride, spares wear suspension and steering helping extend the life of the vehicle.

Overloading and overheating:

Overloading the tires is the second leading cause of tire failure. If the truck is hauling a load of 2,000 lbs, trouble is brewing if the tires are only rated for 1500 pounds. When calculating the load, makes sure to include the tongue weight of any thing that is towed.
Overheating can occur when tires are overloaded, it can also occur with aggressive driving: sudden braking, high speeds, and hard cornering. Road conditions vary, if the driving style changes to meet the road conditions, overheating is minimized.
Selecting tires for your vehicle:
All-season tires are so good that snow tires are never needed is a great myth out there. The depends on location, for places where snow is removed often or not so consistent, then all-season tires are probably the better investment, but if the location is a rural area or a place with a lot of snow, then getting snow-tires is a better investment because they will have about 25% more traction than all-season tires.
Replacing tires in pairs or complete sets:
Besides the fact that its going to cost more per to replace tires individually, it can also upset the handling of the vehicle and also affect ABS if only one tire is replaced. If the budget only allows two new tires, when installed place on the rear axle to help maintain maximum traction and reduce the chance of oversteering on front wheel drive vehicles.

Rules for replacing tires:
Extreme uneven tread wear, also while this is being done have the steering and suspension checked also.
Cracks or bulges in the sidewalls and tread.
"Chunks" of tread missing from the tire.
The tire was punctured and cannot be repaired satisfactorily.
Any portion of the thread is worn to the indicator bars, these are small metal strips that will appear once the tread is down to 20% of the new tread depth, or 1/16th of an inch deep whichever is greater.

Safe and Stylish

2010-03-26T10:23:00.000-07:00

You are driving down the road and see a Winnie the PoohTM sun visor pulled down with a little kid in the back seat, and you say to yourself, “I'm never going to be 'THAT PERSON' when I have a kid.” Then a couple years down the road, you become “THAT PERSON” and you wonder where your style went. Guess what, those cool extras: window tinting, DVD systems, remote start and keyless entry, back up camera and object sensors, suspension, tires, brakes, projector and LED lighting; not only makes the vehicle look better, but will make it safer.

Replace that pull down shade with window tinting. That's right, tinting is not for high school kids and guys with mullets anymore. Tinting windows not only improves the look of the vehicle, but blocks as much as 99.5% of all UVA and UVB rays. During an accident there isn't going to be a metal tube flying around the cabin. Not only helping keep yourself and passengers safe in event of an accident, you are helping them stay healthy. Since we are looking at the inside the cabin of the vehicle, lets take a look at the entertainment system.

We've all seen the DVD systems in big box stores selling for as little as $100, tethered to the backseat by over-glorified rubberbands. If you're going to have a DVD system, why not have it professionally installed? Once again it comes down to having one less thing flying around the cabin. Touching on aesthetics, its going to look neater if you have professionally installed screens. Some systems such as the ones offered by INViSiON have a warranty that follows along with your vehicle if installed when you purchase the vehicle, so if you have a 3 year/36,000 mile warranty, you get the same warranty, if purchased after you paid for the vehicle, you still have a one year warranty and it doesn't cost extra.

The next two items are for convenience, but allow additional safety, remote start and keyless entry systems. With a two-way remote start system you can be wrapping up your shopping, hit a button, get the car started and warming up or cooling down before you even step foot out of the store with the kids, you can put the kids in the car and the shopping into the trunk or cargo area. If the child is an escape artist and thinks its fun to lock the car. Hello keyless entry!! He can lock the door, you hit a button and the car is unlocked which helps keep your child out of danger and out of mischief. If you find yourself in an area that doesn't seem so safe, the keyless entry helps you get in your car that much faster.

The last thing to look at on the inside of your vehicle is a backup camera or a object detection system. Stories on the news about a child being run over because he was playing behind a car show up more often it seems. The more likely scenario the kid left a bike or toy in the driveway and it is run over. Now you have a destroyed toy, a distraught kid, not to mention possible vehicle damage. Save untold aggravation and money by having at least an object detection system installed or something more complete, have a back up camera system installed. Back up cameras don't run all the time, they run when your vehicle is in reverse and in most cases the display is placed in the rear-view mirror so you can still back up properly and see anything in the blind spot behind your vehicle. Now that we've made it outside the car, lets take a look at the suspension.

Ever consider lowering the suspension on your vehicle? Most models do have enough clearance where you can lower suspension to decrease “body roll”, that feeling that the vehicle is going to tip over when cornering, you can also get stiffer sway bars. This will help two ways, the first being more comfortable cornering, and for children that have a propensity to get car sick, the lessened body roll reduces chances of needing to have the car detailed.

The next thing to look at are brakes. You aren't going to skimp on shoes for yourself or your kids, why do that for the vehicle? Now we are not saying to go out and spend 30 grand on a new brake system or 20 grand on tires. However, when you go to replace your brakes, take a look at ceramic instead of semi-metallic pads. Ceramics have the same stopping power with a fraction of the heat, this will not only extend the life of rotors, but will also make the drive more pleasant because you don't hear squeaking when you use the brakes.

Tires should be replaced when tread indicator bars (small metallic strips embedded in the tires that show when the tread is down to 20% of the original thread depth) are seen, or when the tread depth is 1/16” deep (you can tell this if you put a penny in the thread head first and you can see the top of Abe Lincoln's head), whichever is greater. When replacing the tires, always try to replace them as a set, if the budget only allows for two, place the new tires on the rear and move the least worn set of used tires to the front of the vehicle. That way the newer tread will help provide better traction; in front wheel drive vehicles, this reduces the chance of oversteering.

Finally, make sure you can see the road and others can see you, you can get Light Emitting Diode (LED) running lights and brake lights so people will be able to see you coming or stopping from further away; LEDs are brighter than their incandescent counterparts. Upgrading normal head lights to projector headlights that allow more of the road and shoulder to be seen without blinding oncoming traffic should always be considered when thinking about lighting.

Don't sacrafice substance for style. But if the car is not tuned up, the tires properly inflated, or not changing fluids according to the owner's manual, all the additional things are just expensive little things instead of making your vehicle more enjoyable or safer.